Mercedes Late 107 and 123, 126, 201, 124 Chassis Ignition Switch Only

No instructions or special tool included

This GENUINE MERCEDES switch will work on all 107 chassis 380SL and 560SL 1981 to 1989, all 126 chassis sedans and coupes 1981 to 1991 , all 123 chassis 240D 300D 300CD 300TD from 1981 to 1985, all 201 chassis 190E 2.6 and 190D ( 190E 2.3 up to 1988 ONLY) and all 124 chassis from 1986 to 1993. PLEASE note YEARS carefully.....If you order in error switch is not returnable.

The primary electrical ignition switch on these Mercedes is located on the back side of the ignition key and steering lock assembly. Access is through the instrument cluster hole in the dash board. If you are not familiar with removal of your cluster please order my Instrument Cluster Removal and Component Replacement Guide available separately. No instructions for removal of the cluster are included in this kit.

A bad switch can exhibit the following symptoms: Intermittent starter motor contact (first check your starter motor and neutral safety switch at the transmission before replacing this switch) and/or intermittent operation of high amperage electrical components such as your heater blower motor,etc (first check heater motor operation and fuses before assuming it is your switch).

NOTE TO DIESEL OWNERS: It is very common to see black oil in and around this switch. This occurs when you have a leaking shut-off valve and engine oil is sucked up into the ignition switch. If you see this on your car I recommend you replace the switch BEFORE it fails on you. Since it is such an inexpensive part it is worth the preventative measures to replace it.

If your key is sticking or getting increasingly more difficult to turn, this is not usually due to failure of the electrical switch. It is more likely you have a worn key tumbler assembly and / or steering lock pin. CLICK HERE to view our listing of these other parts and kits.

Here is a picture inside a bad switch. Note the melted plastic due to arcing caused by bad contacts.