This is the tool I love to use when troubleshooting engine operating temperature problems. You can stand back and aim the beam right on a spot on the radiator or engine to get an exact temperature reading. This can indicate whether or not your radiator is plugged and confirm if your temperature gauge is accurate or not.
If you are running SVO it can give you accurate readings of the temperature of your oil - both during filtering and coming out of your boost heater.
Features:
NEW LOCTITE PRODUCT - AUGUST PROMO! If you have read very many of my manuals and instructions you already know how much I detest Silicone Gasket Sealant. I know there are places for silicone (ie bath tub caulking, etc), but it should not be used on internal combustion engines!
When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings were swollen and would just not stay connected? This is a L shaped fitting that fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.
When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings or hose were swollen and would just not stay connected? Here is some extra vacuum hose to fix your problem. Fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.
ONE meter cut piece.
This size freeze plug fits almost all gas and diesel engines from the early 70s up into the 90s. This includes all 61x and 60x diesel engines, the 103 gas engine in the 190E, 300SE and 300E. It also fits many V8 engines but you should measure your current plug to be sure. This part measures 34 mm in diameter.
We are seeing more freeze plugs rust out from the inside as these engines age. First sign will be a little rust ring around the outside edge of the plug, next sign will be slight coolant loss, and last sign may be catasropic engine over heat. Check your freeze plugs for any sign of deterioration NOW.
If you plan to change coolant hoses this is a must have labor saving tool. This is one cleverly designed tool. Could not have done it better myself. I actually use to make a couple different types before I found this one. If you have ever tried to remove a radiator hose corroded to an aluminum housing you know what I am talking about and you will love this tool. Great when changing radiator hoses, especially the short hose. 8 inches in length.
It will get those stuck radiator hoses loose and off in seconds...
This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.
Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.
This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.
Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.
If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.
If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.
It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.
In all my years of working around engines the one thing that absolutely drives me crazy is barbed hose fittings. This even got worse in recents years as many SVO WVO kit makers would send our their components with barbed hose fittings! Just try to remove a rubber fuel hose from a barbed fitting after is has been clamped down, or not even clamped down. Try to remove it after a few months when the hose has been heated and it is even worse!. You end up having to cut the hose off and if you are not careful you can nick the barb and the new hose will leak.
PLEASE NOTE: This can only be shipped UPS ground. It can not be shipped via postal or to foreign addresses. If you have any Mercedes model with hydraulic self leveling suspension from the early 70's up to the early 1990's this is the correct fluid to use. High quality Meyle or Febi Bilstein product from Germany. Any other type of fluid can damage the seals and score your pump. Believe it or not, I have seen transmission fluid, jack fluid, and even engine oil in these systems. If your fluid is old and dark it is time to flush it out. Order 3 liters if you are going to do a complete fluid change (you will have a little left over). At the same time you should change the filter located in the top of the fluid tank. CLICK HERE to order filter.
Almost all Mercedes gas and diesel engines from the late 50's up to the early 90's used pressed in steel pins to hold the timing chain guide rails in position (inside the engine block). To easily remove these you can use a slide hammer IF the engine is out of the car!!! In the real world of old cars, timing chain guide rails often have to be replaced with the engine in the car! There is no room between the front of the engine and the radiator to get any type of slide hammer or long puller tool to work.
This kit contains everything you need to reseal your hydraulic suspension pump. It includes the factory input shaft seal and hard to find orings to seal the cover and inside the pump. Comes with instructions. If your shaft seal is bad you could be leaking hydraulic fluid into your engine... not good! All these pumps are now 20 plus years or older. They all need resealing if they have never been opened.
Note: This is only a reseal kit. If the inside of your pump is badly worn or scored this kit will not fix your problems. New pumps are very very expensive. We have only a couple good used pumps available. CLICK HERE to view.
This is one of the best built fluid extractors I have seen. As is it works great for drawing power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc. out of their reservoirs. If you attach a hard plastic line on the end (you will need to fabricate a fitting reducer) you can even draw transmission and engine oil. It works great for extracting trans fluid when it has been overfilled. Can be used to add new fluids. You can add transmission fluid carefully to get just the right amount without spilling all over the place. :-)
There are nice measurng marks on the outside of the plastic tub. The pump rod is made from brass and both end caps are threaded aluminum (so you can remove them for cleaning and inspection.
Not only does this set include almost 100 pieces but it includes metric sized allen (hex) bits and even an attachment to remove a wing nut! How cool is that? Most kits don't contain metric sizes. There are probably enough screwdriver bits in this kit to last you for a very long. Comes in nice molded red case.
Installing steel threaded spark plugs in aluminum heads is risky business. If you are not careful it is easy to damage the fragile aluminum threads. In a few cases I have seen spark plugs blow out of their holes while the engine is running. And does that ever make a loud racket! Heavy handed mechanics often cross thread the plugs during a tune-up and you wont even know it until you go to replace the plugs at some later date.