If you have read very many of my manuals and instructions you already know how much I detest Silicone Gasket Sealant. I know there are places for silicone (ie bath tub caulking, etc), but it should not be used on internal combustion engines!
This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.
Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.
This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.
Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.
If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.
If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.
It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.
This is one of the best built fluid extractors I have seen. As is it works great for drawing power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc. out of their reservoirs. If you attach a hard plastic line on the end (you will need to fabricate a fitting reducer) you can even draw transmission and engine oil. It works great for extracting trans fluid when it has been overfilled. Can be used to add new fluids. You can add transmission fluid carefully to get just the right amount without spilling all over the place. :-)
There are nice measurng marks on the outside of the plastic tub. The pump rod is made from brass and both end caps are threaded aluminum (so you can remove them for cleaning and inspection.
This is my favorite set of tweezers for helping to hold small parts in place for assembly. The wide ones are particularly helpful when a second hand is needed to hold a small bolt or screw in place. Comes with seven different tweezers as shown. Good for car work. Not good for pulling hair!
We are now offering a kit with 2 new tie rods and a tool to remove the old ones. Note: Plan to have a front end alighment check done after replacement. This can be done at any good tire or front end alighment shop. This is a very common wear item on older 107 convertibels and coupes 1972 to 1989. Often if one is worn the other is not far behind, so we always recommend replacing them as a set.
Instructions included: Kit comes with a tip sheet of illustrated instructions on how to get the old ones off and the new ones adjusted and on your car.
If you feel you also need the center rod please call or email us.
Not only does this set include almost 100 pieces but it includes metric sized allen (hex) bits and even an attachment to remove a wing nut! How cool is that? Most kits don't contain metric sizes. There are probably enough screwdriver bits in this kit to last you for a very long. Comes in nice molded red case.
How many times have we (and I am talking about myself here) done an oil change on our vehicle, looked at the odometer and said to ourselves, I will write the mileage down later. I know that I have even tried to memorize the mileage, only to discover a couple months down the road that I am asking myself, Was that 82 or 83 thousand miles?
This is a great kit for you early SL and SLC owners. Fits all 450SL, 450SLC, 380SLC, and 380SL from 1972 to 1985. If you are getting a lot of body roll in the turns this kit will really tighten up the front sway bar. Comes with all rubber and hardware as shown. Sorry no instructions but this is an easy and straightforward replacement. This kit lists for $90.00
You might also consider replace the front subframe mount rubbers at the same time. CLICK HERE
CURRENTLY NOT AVAILABLE. Newly rebuilt set of left and right rear brake calipers complete with new springs, pins and pin clips to mount the brake pads. These are BENDIX brand and they can replace ATE calipers as long as they are changed AS a set. Brake pads are NOT included. These are the same calipers on a whole range of models starting in 1974 to 1976 with the late model 114 and 115 Chassis right up until the last 126 model in 1991. If you don't know your chassis number please email us. They will not fit 201 or 124 chassis. If you need pads CLICK HERE.
Mercedes use a lot of Metric Allen Head bolts especially on their engines. If you are going to work on them yourself one of the first things you will need is a good assortment. Start with a 3/8 inch drive socket set as shown. These are inexpensive but well made sockets from China - most common sizes 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 10 mm. They can be cut and modified for special applications.
SKU: TUL-COMMASS
FITS THE FOLLOWING: 114, 115, 107, 116, 123 and 126 chassis Mercedes to 1985 that use the rear axles with the crimped sealed cans over the flex joints (spider). Read text for more detail.
Mercedes rear axles of the 1970s and 1980s are extremely robust. I have seen them go over 400,000 miles with no adverse wine and with their original axle boots still in place. But as these cars age, I am seeing more problems with axle boot deterioration and axle joint failure. This kit will help you to replace your old boots (on the axle types that have the sealed can over the inboard spider gear). NOTE: if your joint covers have bolts in them then this kit will not work!
FITS THE FOLLOWING: all 107, 108, 109, 111, 113, 114, 115, 116, 123 and 126 chassis from 1969 to 1991. Tired of squeeking or squealing brakes? I have owned over 40 different models of Mercedes and have finally found a way to stop that annoying noise. 80 percent of the squeeking comes from the rear brake pads. These German Textar pads have a special soft material bonded to the back side of the pad. It works better than any brake paste or shim plate. You will love these pads and so will your ears!!
We have matching front pads also. Email or call for price. We will need year, model and vin number of your Mercedes before we can quote a price.
SKU: BRK-COMRBPFits all 107 Chassis mercedes 1972-1989. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
If your steering is feeling a little weak or mushy replace the steering shock absorber. Easy to install on the cross steering link with only two bolts. Comes with Instuctions for easy installation! FITS THE FOLLOWING: 107, 108, 109, 111, 112, 113, 116, 123 and 126 chassis, both gasoline and diesel models from the early 60's up through 1991.
SKU: RGR-COMSSA
Here is a brand new set of four exhaust "donuts". Check your existing rubber hangers on your exhaust. If they are cracked replace them before you lose your mufflers! If your exhaust is rattling, these should fix the problem. Fits all chassis models 108 107 113 116 123 126.
SKU: BDP-COMREH