116, Brakes

PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT A PRODUCT, JUST INFORMATION WE WILL BE PROVIDING ON THE WEBSITE. STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION! This question could well be the number one request we receive from new customers. The question seems to be popping up frequently now as many people are buying these old diesels for the first time hoping to convert them to run on alternative fuel. It is a great idea and can be a rewarding endevour IF you find the right car to begin with and are willing and able to repair it yourself.

I like this - permanent - threadlocker because it is super strong but can still be removed with a heavy handed breaker bar. This is a very large bottle for the price and is a must have for Mercedes diesel owners. I use it anytime I am doing major repair work on an engine or transmission. Great for front crank bolt, cam bolt, torque converter bolts, injection pump mounting nuts, front engine accessories, brake caliper bolts, front suspension, etc. Anything that you can just not afford to come loose.

This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.

Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.

This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.

Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.

Here is an inexpensive set of cleaning brushes that really get down in the crevices. The plastic one is good for exterior cleaning around the window and body trim. The brass is good for cleaning engine parts you don't want to scratech. The steel one is excellent if you are doing some rust repair.

If you are going to work on your diesel fuel injectors you are going to need a torque wrench. If you are going to tighten your alloy wheel lug bolts properly you should use a torque wrench. In fact if you do your own work you should have a 1/2 inch clicker torque wrench in your tool box. I know why you don't have one. They tend to be expensive for the limited amount you might use one. Well, now you can get a quality one for a very good price. This is a special offer and we only have a limited number in stock.

It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.

 

This is one of the best built fluid extractors I have seen. As is it works great for drawing power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc. out of their reservoirs. If you attach a hard plastic line on the end (you will need to fabricate a fitting reducer) you can even draw transmission and engine oil. It works great for extracting trans fluid when it has been overfilled. Can be used to add new fluids. You can add transmission fluid carefully to get just the right amount without spilling all over the place. :-)

There are nice measurng marks on the outside of the plastic tub. The pump rod is made from brass and both end caps are threaded aluminum (so you can remove them for cleaning and inspection.

2007-12-05ALERT! Before you replace your suspected failing brake booster you might want to change the o-ring seal between the master cylinder and booster first. I have seen more than one expensive booster replaced when it was only a $2.00 o-ring. If your engine is producing good vacuum to the booster but your brake pedal still feels hard then at least check this o-ring.

If you need everything for your front hub then this is the best deal. This kit is for ONE SIDE ONLY. Comes with inner and outer wheel bearings, seal, cap, ground clip and pre-load adjusting bolt. Fits right or left side all 116 and 123 up to 1985, and 126 chassis up to 1985 ONLY. These are VERY common wear items on all older chassis that I see come into the shop. Replace at 200,000 miles. We also sell the bearings individually if you do not need the entire kit. Unless you have the proper tools plan to take your hub to a machine shop to have the race pressed in. List price is $73.00.

New front INNER wheel bearing with race for one side only. Fits right or left side all 116, 123 and 126 chassis. This is a VERY common wear item on almost all 123 chassis I see come into the shop. Replace at 200,000 miles. We also sell the inner individually or check our complete kit if you need everything. Unless you have the proper tools plan to take your hub to a machine shop to have the race pressed in. List price is $34.50

Set of 2 Quality German ATE brake rotors. The great thing about Mercedes is that these rotors fit almost all their models from the late 1960s until the late 1980's. This includes 108, 111, 113, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123 and 126 chassis built during those years. These can be easily change by removing the rear calipers. Do not bother machining old rotors. Mercedes always recommends you just replace with new when your old rotors are badly scored - and at our price new is only slightly more than having your old ones turned at a machine shop.

FITS THE FOLLOWING rear brake assemblies both ATE and Bendix: all 107, 108, 109, 111, 113, 114, 115, 116, 123 and 126 chassis from 1969 to 1991. Tired of squeeking or squealing brakes but find you pads are almost new. Many times adding this shim between the caliper piston and the back of the brake pad with stop annoying slow speed brake sqeal. When you add high temp brake pad paste to both sides of the metal shim you can almost guarantee long sweek free service. SOLD IN A SET OF TWO.

This is my favorite set of tweezers for helping to hold small parts in place for assembly. The wide ones are particularly helpful when a second hand is needed to hold a small bolt or screw in place. Comes with seven different tweezers as shown. Good for car work. Not good for pulling hair!

 

If you plan to do much work on your Mercedes these metric wrenches and sockets are very desireable - if not a necessity. If you have wanted to add to your tool box but not spend a lot of money here is your chance. These are not Snap On quality wrenches but if you only work on cars ocassionally these are more than adequate to get the job done. Set includes metric crows feet, metric 3/8 inch drive hex (Allen) sockets, and metric 1/4 inch drive socket set 5 to 14 mm. These items are also available separately. To see a list of all our tools CLICK HERE.

Long drive pin punches are very handy when working on your Benz. The smaller size in this set is particularly helpful when removing and replacing twin pin style brake pads. All steel. Made in India.

New front outer wheel bearing with race for one side only. Fits right or left side all 116, 123 and 126 chassis. This is a VERY common wear item on almost all 123 chassis I see come into the shop. Replace at 200,000 miles. Outers will wear out a lot faster than the inners. We also sell the inner individually or check our complete kit if you need everything. Unless you have the proper tools plan to take your hub to a machine shop to have the race pressed in. List price is $23.68

Not only does this set include almost 100 pieces but it includes metric sized allen (hex) bits and even an attachment to remove a wing nut! How cool is that? Most kits don't contain metric sizes. There are probably enough screwdriver bits in this kit to last you for a very long. Comes in nice molded red case.

Here is a great set of metric wrenches at a fantastic price that you can afford to cut, grind, heat and bend for all those instances where you need a specical wrench to get into a tight place. These are a black oxide finish so you won't have a problem with the chrome chipping or peeling off after modification. They are made in India and I have found they are a little tougher than the cheap sets coming out of China. Sizes range from 6 mm to 24 mm. The other nice thing about these wrenches is the open end heads are thinner than most other wrenches and will allow you to get onto narrower nuts. And if they are still too thick you can grind them thinner!!

Every tool box should have this set!

This guide is written specifically for owners of 123 and 126 diesels up to 1985. There are some sections that apply to the 115 and 116 chassis but it is not specific to those models. This manual covers understanding how the vacuum system works, common symptoms of trouble, possible causes, and testing and repairing the problems. Deals mostly with issues from the firewall forward like testing the vacuum pump, repairing shutoff problems, finding leaks, etc.

Can be used to log maintenance on all Mercedes, Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. We are excited here at Mercedessource about our new book release. This is one booklet we believe every Mercedes owner of every model will really appreciate. In fact we know a number of you will want multiple copies. We plan to use the first 30 to 40 around here personally for our own fleet.

How many times have we (and I am talking about myself here) done an oil change on our vehicle, looked at the odometer and said to ourselves, I will write the mileage down later. I know that I have even tried to memorize the mileage, only to discover a couple months down the road that I am asking myself, Was that 82 or 83 thousand miles?

Applies to testing vacuum problems and bleeding brakes on all chassis Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201 and 124 chassis. You have asked for it so we decided to deliver. Here is my recommendation for the best vacuum test pump you can buy for the money. Over the years Ive used three different types of vacuum hand pump testers and out of these three this one has proven to be the best all around. It has the best feel of the grip when pumping, the greatest amount of vacuum created at each pump stroke and the highest durability. This unit has a brass body and is very well built. Must better than the Mighty Vac plastic units.

CURRENTLY NOT AVAILABLE. Newly rebuilt set of left and right rear brake calipers complete with new springs, pins and pin clips to mount the brake pads. These are BENDIX brand and they can replace ATE calipers as long as they are changed AS a set. Brake pads are NOT included. These are the same calipers on a whole range of models starting in 1974 to 1976 with the late model 114 and 115 Chassis right up until the last 126 model in 1991. If you don't know your chassis number please email us. They will not fit 201 or 124 chassis. If you need pads CLICK HERE.

Older Mercedes have a very effective emergency brake design which was virtually the same on all models from the late 1960's right up through the early 1990's. The actuating mechanisms are all mechanical and are controlled by a Y cable under the car. This cable is pulled by either a hand or foot operated lever.

Fits all models from the late 1960's up to the early 1990's that use a contact grounding spring inside the front hub bearing grease caps. Sold as a set of two (2).

Fits all 116, 123, and 126 chassis from 1973 to 1991 with automatic transmission. Replace that worn and slippery rubber brake pedal pad now! SKU: BRK-COMRBPP

This is the special tool that is a MUST have if you are going to replace your emergency brake shoes or just the brake shoe springs. These little springs often rust and brake loose. When they do they can make clicking and scraping noises inside your rear brakes. As shown in the picture the tool is inserted through a lug bolt hole in the rear bub which allows you to compress and turn the spring for removal and replacement. Try doing this without this tool and I guarantee you will lose your cool.

Works on all models from the late 1960's up t the mid 1990's that use shoe type emergency brakes inside the rear brake rotor/drum.

If you need new springs CLICK HERE to order

FITS ALL Mercedes Gas and Diesel models 114, 115, 107, 116, 123 and 126 chassis 1968 to 1991. Also fits late model 111, 113 and 108 chassis 1968 to 1973. This is a brand new German made emergency brake shoe set. Complete set for both sides with all spring hardware as shown. Also comes with my manual on brake shoe replacement and adjusting procedures. A must have if you have not done this job before. Now is a good time to remove your rear brake rotors and inspect those brake shoe linings.

SKU: BRK-COMPBSS

 

Fits the Following: All 107,116,123 and 126 Chassis from 1973-1991.

This is a set of just 2 front brake pad sensor wires. The front brakes require two per side. We also offer eight for those who need both sides or extras.

SKU: BRK-COM2BPW

FITS THE FOLLOWING: all 107, 108, 109, 111, 113, 114, 115, 116, 123 and 126 chassis from 1969 to 1991. Tired of squeeking or squealing brakes? I have owned over 40 different models of Mercedes and have finally found a way to stop that annoying noise. 80 percent of the squeeking comes from the rear brake pads. These German Textar pads have a special soft material bonded to the back side of the pad. It works better than any brake paste or shim plate. You will love these pads and so will your ears!!

We have matching front pads also. Email or call for price. We will need year, model and vin number of your Mercedes before we can quote a price.

SKU: BRK-COMRBP

Fits the Following: All 107,116,123 and 126 Chassis from 1973-1991.

This is a set of 8 Front brake pad sensor wires. The front brakes require two per side. Nice to have spares on hand!

SKU: BRK-COMBSW