These five page step-by-step illustrated instructions will walk you through the correct procedure of removing your old worn and cracked door lock rubber diaphragms from the actuator housing and replacing them with new ones. These are procedural instructions only. They do not include the parts you may need and they DO NOT explain how to remove the door panel and take the actuator out of the door or trunk.

If you have ever thought about replacing the seals in your sunroof here is a chance to read the manual so you can gauge the difficultly of the job. Seals and other repair parts can be purchased separately at a later date. Both the front and side seals can be replaced without removing the sunroof panel from the car. That makes replacing those seals relatively easy.

For all 108 109 114 115 107 116 123 126 201 and 124 Chassis 1968 to 1989. After 1989 a special cable was installed to keep the transmission locked until the key was turned. This manual does not cover working on those lock systems.

This manual written by Kent Bergsma will walk you step by step through the process of removing and replacing a Mercedes steering lock assembly. This can be a very frustrating job if you don't know some of the factory secrets. For anti-theft reasons the engineers designed it to be very difficult to remove!

For a limited time only. Buy a lemonhead for ten cents when added to any order including other item(s).

Limit 10 per customer

Covers 1965 to 1995 110, 111, 112, 108, 109, 107, 114, 115, 116, 123, 126, 201, 124, and 129 Chassis master cylinder, pads, rotors, calipers and flexible brake hoses

This kit will allow you to remove your dash instrument cluster without having to remove any panels under the dash. You can do it all while sitting in your drivers seat. Specific instructions for each chassis model (see title) are included along with the special removal tools. As an added bonus we are including four of the larger size clear dash bulbs and four of the smaller size clear indicator bulbs at no extra charge. These bulbs are used on the back of your cluster for dash lights, warning lights and indicator lights.

Applies to 111 113 108 109 107 114 116 126 Chassis Mercedes.

This is a must have for any owner of an older Mercedes gas engine model. This applies to all 4 , 6 and 8 cylinder from the mid 1950 s to the mid 1980s. The manual covers prevention of thread damage and how to repair a totally destroyed spark plug hole. Never force a spark plug into the threads and if a plug comes out hard the threads MUST be cleaned with a chaser before you reinstall a new plug.

How many times have we (and I am talking about myself here) done an oil change on our vehicle, looked at the odometer and said to ourselves, I will write the mileage down later. I know that I have even tried to memorize the mileage, only to discover a couple months down the road that I am asking myself, Was that 82 or 83 thousand miles?

Older Mercedes have a very effective emergency brake design which was virtually the same on all models from the late 1960s right up through the early 1990s. The actuating mechanisms are all mechanical and are controlled by a Y cable under the car. This cable is pulled by either a hand or foot operated lever.

Covers 107 108 114 115 116 123 126 201 124 Chassis from 1968 to 1993

This manual is part of our new Advanced DIY Mechanic Series. It covers advanced procedures in simple terms with photos to illustrate every step. The format size is 8.5 x 7 inches. It is printed on 28 pound stock paper and is wire bound to allow it to stay open when on your workbench.

For all 108, 109, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis from 1965 to 1995. I wrote this repair guide to show you how to properly remove your instrument cluster and replace worn or failing components.

Fits all chassis: 107, 114, 115, 116, 123, 126, 201 and 124. This repair manual is written for all Mercedes models from the early 1970s up to the later 1980s. Principles may apply to older pre 1970 chassis as well but most instructions and illustrations are written for the chassis numbers listed above. Is your drivers seat starting to sag more than it use to? Are you finding it is just not comfortable any more on long trips? Maybe it tips to one side and you are constantly trying to compensate your weight to the other side. This manual will show you how you can remove and repair the seat yourself using original Mercedes used parts.

This repair guide covers all 114 and 115 chassis Mercedes sedans built from 1968 to 1976. Removing a 114/115 chassis door panel and doing related door maintenance and repair are all fairly easy jobs for the do-it-yourselfer. If you have not removed a door panel before, there are a few pitfalls. This guide will take you step by step on how to properly remove the door panels without damaging them.

Can be used to log maintenance on all Mercedes, PON FIN P55 Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. Each of these is a shortened version of our regular maintenance logbook which contains 20 two page entry forms which is enough for 60,000 miles of driving. We are offering this logbook in a 3 pack for those of you who have multiple Mercedes. You know these log books can even be used with other cars with slight modification. At least you will have a detailed record no matter what vehicle you are working on!

For all 114/115 chassis 220D 240D and 300D models with vacuum door locks built from 1968 to 1976. Now you can finally fix those pesky vacuum door locks yourself! Failure is almost always caused by vacuum leaks in the system. This 28 page manual with 55 photographs will take you step by step through the process of quickly finding and repairing those leaks.

Starting at the firewall and working all the way to the trunk/deck of your car, I will show you how to isolate the problems even without having to take the door panels off.

To aid in trouble shooting you will need to acquire an inexpensive vacuum hand pump. Normal hand tools are the only other things you will need.

FITS THE FOLLOWING: 114, 115, 107, 123 and 126 to 1985 chassis Mercedes that use the rear axles with the crimped sealed cans over the flex joints (spider). Mercedes rear axles of the 1970s and 1980s are extremely robust. I have seen them go over 400,000 miles with no adverse wine and with their original axle boots still in place.

But as these cars age, I am seeing more problems with axle boot deterioration and axle joint failure. This manual will cover the procedures for removing and installing the axle assemblies, options for repair or replacement, and detailed instructions on how to replace the boots.

Applies to all Mercedes: Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. I have been trying to find a lasting solution to rust problems on old cars ever since 1962. That was when I purchased a 1934 Ford Sedan and brought it home to fix up and drive. I was only 15 at the time, but I certainly did not find the rust holes very attractive in the lower front and rear quarter panels.

For all 111, 112, 108, 109, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, 126 and 201 chassis (Non tilting roofs up through 1986). Do you have a power sunroof that is working poorly or maybe not at all? Does it move slowly or not at all in the morning, but when it heats up during the day it works just fine? Do you have to assist it by hand to get it fully opened or closed? This 28 page guide with 46 pictures with help you fix those problems. It contains information that you will not see in any other manual. I will take you step by step through all the procedures you'll need to go through to get your electric sunroof working properly again. Written by Kent Bergsma.