115, Suspension & Driveline

NEW LOCTITE PRODUCT - AUGUST PROMO! If you have read very many of my manuals and instructions you already know how much I detest Silicone Gasket Sealant. I know there are places for silicone (ie bath tub caulking, etc), but it should not be used on internal combustion engines!

PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT A PRODUCT, JUST INFORMATION WE WILL BE PROVIDING ON THE WEBSITE. STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION! This question could well be the number one request we receive from new customers. The question seems to be popping up frequently now as many people are buying these old diesels for the first time hoping to convert them to run on alternative fuel. It is a great idea and can be a rewarding endevour IF you find the right car to begin with and are willing and able to repair it yourself.

I like this - permanent - threadlocker because it is super strong but can still be removed with a heavy handed breaker bar. This is a very large bottle for the price and is a must have for Mercedes diesel owners. I use it anytime I am doing major repair work on an engine or transmission. Great for front crank bolt, cam bolt, torque converter bolts, injection pump mounting nuts, front engine accessories, brake caliper bolts, front suspension, etc. Anything that you can just not afford to come loose.

This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.

Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.

This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.

Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.

If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.

If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.

Here is an inexpensive set of cleaning brushes that really get down in the crevices. The plastic one is good for exterior cleaning around the window and body trim. The brass is good for cleaning engine parts you don't want to scratech. The steel one is excellent if you are doing some rust repair.

If you are going to work on your diesel fuel injectors you are going to need a torque wrench. If you are going to tighten your alloy wheel lug bolts properly you should use a torque wrench. In fact if you do your own work you should have a 1/2 inch clicker torque wrench in your tool box. I know why you don't have one. They tend to be expensive for the limited amount you might use one. Well, now you can get a quality one for a very good price. This is a special offer and we only have a limited number in stock.

It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.

 

This 400 plus page guide covers factory time repair estimates for most common jobs on Mercedes Models produced during the 1960s. Covers chassis 111 sedans, coupes and convertibles, 112, 113, 108, 109 and early 114 and 115 models. Pages are laid out in chart format listing jobs and time estimates in column format. NOTE: Pages have been removed from original factory binding and placed in medium 3 ring binder for easy of reading.  
Binder itself is not in very good condition but is a standard smaller size.

This 400 plus page guide covers factory time repair estimates for most common jobs on Mercedes Models produced during the 1960s. Covers chassis 111 sedans, coupes and convertibles, 112, 113, 108, 109 and early 114 and 115 models. Pages are laid out in chart format listing jobs and time estimates in column format.

 

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1971 time manual

This is one of the best built fluid extractors I have seen. As is it works great for drawing power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc. out of their reservoirs. If you attach a hard plastic line on the end (you will need to fabricate a fitting reducer) you can even draw transmission and engine oil. It works great for extracting trans fluid when it has been overfilled. Can be used to add new fluids. You can add transmission fluid carefully to get just the right amount without spilling all over the place. :-)

There are nice measurng marks on the outside of the plastic tub. The pump rod is made from brass and both end caps are threaded aluminum (so you can remove them for cleaning and inspection.

Set of 2 Quality German ATE brake rotors. The great thing about Mercedes is that these rotors fit almost all their models from the late 1960s until the late 1980's. This includes 108, 111, 113, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123 and 126 chassis built during those years. These can be easily change by removing the rear calipers. Do not bother machining old rotors. Mercedes always recommends you just replace with new when your old rotors are badly scored - and at our price new is only slightly more than having your old ones turned at a machine shop.

FITS THE FOLLOWING rear brake assemblies both ATE and Bendix: all 107, 108, 109, 111, 113, 114, 115, 116, 123 and 126 chassis from 1969 to 1991. Tired of squeeking or squealing brakes but find you pads are almost new. Many times adding this shim between the caliper piston and the back of the brake pad with stop annoying slow speed brake sqeal. When you add high temp brake pad paste to both sides of the metal shim you can almost guarantee long sweek free service. SOLD IN A SET OF TWO.

If you plan to do much work on your Mercedes these metric wrenches and sockets are very desireable - if not a necessity. If you have wanted to add to your tool box but not spend a lot of money here is your chance. These are not Snap On quality wrenches but if you only work on cars ocassionally these are more than adequate to get the job done. Set includes metric crows feet, metric 3/8 inch drive hex (Allen) sockets, and metric 1/4 inch drive socket set 5 to 14 mm. These items are also available separately. To see a list of all our tools CLICK HERE.

Long drive pin punches are very handy when working on your Benz. The smaller size in this set is particularly helpful when removing and replacing twin pin style brake pads. All steel. Made in India.

Not only does this set include almost 100 pieces but it includes metric sized allen (hex) bits and even an attachment to remove a wing nut! How cool is that? Most kits don't contain metric sizes. There are probably enough screwdriver bits in this kit to last you for a very long. Comes in nice molded red case.

Can be used to log maintenance on all Mercedes, Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. We are excited here at Mercedessource about our new book release. This is one booklet we believe every Mercedes owner of every model will really appreciate. In fact we know a number of you will want multiple copies. We plan to use the first 30 to 40 around here personally for our own fleet.

How many times have we (and I am talking about myself here) done an oil change on our vehicle, looked at the odometer and said to ourselves, I will write the mileage down later. I know that I have even tried to memorize the mileage, only to discover a couple months down the road that I am asking myself, Was that 82 or 83 thousand miles?

This is a great kit for you 114 and 115 owners. Fits all Sedans and Couple both gas and diesel from 1968 to 1976. Also fit early SL and SLC convertibles and coupes - all 450SL, 450SLC, 380SLC, and 380SL from 1972 to 1985. Brand new UPPER control arm inner bushing repair kit. List price is $117.00. What 107 or 114/115 doesn't have warn out control arm bushings. What a great way to tighten up the front end. This is not a do-it-yourself job. You can get almost any good front end / alignment shop to install these for you. This kit includes all parts for ONE SIDE (either left or right) of the UPPER control arm only. To order bushings for the upper control arm type upper bushing in the search box on the right.

This is a great kit for you 114 and 115 owners. Fits all Sedans and Couple both gas and diesel from 1968 to 1976. Also fit early SL and SLC convertibles and coupes - all 450SL, 450SLC, 380SLC, and 380SL from 1972 to 1985. Brand new lower control arm inner bushing repair kit. List price is $75.00. What 107 or 114/115 doesn't have warn out control arm bushings. What a great way to tighten up the front end. This is not a do-it-yourself job. You can get almost any good front end / alignment shop to install these for you. This kit includes all parts for ONE SIDE (either left or right) of the LOWER control arm only. To order bushings for the upper control arm type upper bushing in the search box on the right.

Brand new upper ball joint assembly with hardware. Fits all 114 115 Sedans and Couple both gas and diesel from 1972 to 1976. Also fit early SL and SLC convertibles and coupes - all 450SL, 450SLC, 380SLC, and 380SL from 1972 to 1985. Replacing the upper ball joint is not a do-it-yourself job. You can get almost any good front end / alignment shop to install these for you.

This is a great kit for you 114 and 115 owners. Fits all Sedans and Couple both gas and diesel from 1968 to 1976. Also fit early SL and SLC convertibles and coupes - all 450SL, 450SLC, 380SLC, and 380SL from 1972 to 1985. Brand new set of 2 lower ball joints. This is not a do-it-yourself job. You can get almost any good front end / alignment shop to install these for you.

This is a great kit for you 114 and 115 owners. Fits all Sedans and Couple both gas and diesel from 1968 to 1976. If you are getting a lot of body roll in the turns this kit will really tighten up the front sway bar. Comes with all rubber and hardware as shown. Sorry no instructions but this is an easy and straightforward replacement. This kit lists for $90.00

You might also consider replace the front subframe mount rubbers at the same time. CLICK HERE

Mercedes use a lot of Metric Allen Head bolts especially on their engines. If you are going to work on them yourself one of the first things you will need is a good assortment. Start with a 3/8 inch drive socket set as shown. These are inexpensive but well made sockets from China - most common sizes 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 10 mm. They can be cut and modified for special applications.

SKU: TUL-COMMASS

FITS THE FOLLOWING: 114, 115, 107, 116, 123 and 126 chassis Mercedes to 1985 that use the rear axles with the crimped sealed cans over the flex joints (spider). Read text for more detail.

Mercedes rear axles of the 1970s and 1980s are extremely robust. I have seen them go over 400,000 miles with no adverse wine and with their original axle boots still in place. But as these cars age, I am seeing more problems with axle boot deterioration and axle joint failure. This kit will help you to replace your old boots (on the axle types that have the sealed can over the inboard spider gear). NOTE: if your joint covers have bolts in them then this kit will not work!

This is a new OEM Mercedes brand. Fits all 111, late 113 and 108 chassis 1969 to 1972, 116 300SD 1978 to 1980, all 114, all 115, all 123, 126 chassis gas and diesel 1981 to 1985, 124 300D 1987 only, 300SDL, 126 350SD and SDL. This kit contains the rubber mounts and all the hardware to correctly repair your exhaust hanger shock mount assembly.

FITS THE FOLLOWING: all 107, 108, 109, 111, 113, 114, 115, 116, 123 and 126 chassis from 1969 to 1991. Tired of squeeking or squealing brakes? I have owned over 40 different models of Mercedes and have finally found a way to stop that annoying noise. 80 percent of the squeeking comes from the rear brake pads. These German Textar pads have a special soft material bonded to the back side of the pad. It works better than any brake paste or shim plate. You will love these pads and so will your ears!!

We have matching front pads also. Email or call for price. We will need year, model and vin number of your Mercedes before we can quote a price.

SKU: BRK-COMRBP

FITS ALL 115 220D 240D 300D and 123 240D 300CD 300D 300TD with NON TURBO engines.

THIS IS AN IMPORTANT MERCEDESSOURCE MAINTENANCE ALERT

In previous years I have had a number of Mercedes diesels come in to my shop with severe damage due to total driveline flex disk failure. Read or weep!

Fits the following chassis: all 114/115 built from 1968 to 1976 and all 123 from 1977-1985.

Here is a common rubber part that is wearing out as these cars get 15 to 20 years old. If your rear end is sitting lower than is use to, this could be the culprit. It is the mount that is bolted to the rear end center housing. If can be readily changed with a good floor jack, jack stands and common hand tools. SM6

SKU: RGR-COMDRM

Fits all 114 and 115 cars 1968-1976. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.

FITS THE FOLLOWING: 114 and 115 chassis sedans and coupes from 1968 to 1976 and 107 SL and SLC from 1972 to 1989. If the front end of your W107 SL or SLC convertible or coupe or 114/115 wanders on the road or thunks when you go over railroad tracks, you most likely need to install a new front sub frame bushing kit. I see this condition even on real low mileage pristine cars.