This is the tool I love to use when troubleshooting engine operating temperature problems. You can stand back and aim the beam right on a spot on the radiator or engine to get an exact temperature reading. This can indicate whether or not your radiator is plugged and confirm if your temperature gauge is accurate or not.
If you are running SVO it can give you accurate readings of the temperature of your oil - both during filtering and coming out of your boost heater.
Features:
NEW LOCTITE PRODUCT - AUGUST PROMO! If you have read very many of my manuals and instructions you already know how much I detest Silicone Gasket Sealant. I know there are places for silicone (ie bath tub caulking, etc), but it should not be used on internal combustion engines!
This is one cleverly designed tool. Could not have done it better myself. I actually use to make a couple different types before I found this one. If you have ever tried to remove a radiator hose corroded to an alumium housing you know what I am talking about and you will love this tool. Great when changing radiator hoses, especially the short hose. 8 inches in length.
It will get those stuck radiator hoses loose and off in seconds...
This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.
Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.
This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.
Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.
If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.
If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.
It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.
Almost all Mercedes gas and diesel engines from the late 50's up to the early 90's used pressed in steel pins to hold the timing chain guide rails in position (inside the engine block). To easily remove these you can use a slide hammer IF the engine is out of the car!!! In the real world of old cars, timing chain guide rails often have to be replaced with the engine in the car! There is no room between the front of the engine and the radiator to get any type of slide hammer or long puller tool to work.
This 400 plus page guide covers factory time repair estimates for most common jobs on Mercedes Models produced during the 1960s. Covers chassis 111 sedans, coupes and convertibles, 112, 113, 108, 109 and early 114 and 115 models. Pages are laid out in chart format listing jobs and time estimates in column format.
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1971 time manual
This is one of the best built fluid extractors I have seen. As is it works great for drawing power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc. out of their reservoirs. If you attach a hard plastic line on the end (you will need to fabricate a fitting reducer) you can even draw transmission and engine oil. It works great for extracting trans fluid when it has been overfilled. Can be used to add new fluids. You can add transmission fluid carefully to get just the right amount without spilling all over the place. :-)
There are nice measurng marks on the outside of the plastic tub. The pump rod is made from brass and both end caps are threaded aluminum (so you can remove them for cleaning and inspection.
Not only does this set include almost 100 pieces but it includes metric sized allen (hex) bits and even an attachment to remove a wing nut! How cool is that? Most kits don't contain metric sizes. There are probably enough screwdriver bits in this kit to last you for a very long. Comes in nice molded red case.
Installing steel threaded spark plugs in aluminum heads is risky business. If you are not careful it is easy to damage the fragile aluminum threads. In a few cases I have seen spark plugs blow out of their holes while the engine is running. And does that ever make a loud racket! Heavy handed mechanics often cross thread the plugs during a tune-up and you wont even know it until you go to replace the plugs at some later date.
Here is a great set of metric wrenches at a fantastic price that you can afford to cut, grind, heat and bend for all those instances where you need a specical wrench to get into a tight place. These are a black oxide finish so you won't have a problem with the chrome chipping or peeling off after modification. They are made in India and I have found they are a little tougher than the cheap sets coming out of China. Sizes range from 6 mm to 24 mm. The other nice thing about these wrenches is the open end heads are thinner than most other wrenches and will allow you to get onto narrower nuts. And if they are still too thick you can grind them thinner!!
Every tool box should have this set!
How many times have we (and I am talking about myself here) done an oil change on our vehicle, looked at the odometer and said to ourselves, I will write the mileage down later. I know that I have even tried to memorize the mileage, only to discover a couple months down the road that I am asking myself, Was that 82 or 83 thousand miles?
Applies to testing vacuum problems and bleeding brakes on all chassis Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201 and 124 chassis. You have asked for it so we decided to deliver. Here is my recommendation for the best vacuum test pump you can buy for the money. Over the years Ive used three different types of vacuum hand pump testers and out of these three this one has proven to be the best all around. It has the best feel of the grip when pumping, the greatest amount of vacuum created at each pump stroke and the highest durability. This unit has a brass body and is very well built. Must better than the Mighty Vac plastic units.
These are my favorite German hose clamps. They tighten securely, don't cut into the hose, and don't rust or break. If you are working on the fuel system of any Mercedes I recommend you have these clamps on had. Just get ride of those old rusty phillips head screw clamps or worse yet - the US style clamps with holes that cut into the rubber. These clamps will work on all 8 mm hose, 5/16 and 3/8 US spec fuel or coolant hose.
For use with our all fuel specification SUPER FUEL HOSE. CLICK HERE to read more. Great to have on hand if you are planning to build your own diesel to SVO conversion.
This kit includes new timing chain,new timing chain tensioner, and instruction manual to change the timing chain in your early Mercedes V8. This includes most models from 1972 up to around 1976. Sometimes you can not go on year alone because someone may have changed the engine. This kit includes the tensioner that does not have the threaded connnectionfor the smog line fitting. Before ordering please go out and inspect your tensioner on the right forward section of your engine to make sure it matches the one pictured below.
If you would like to change your upper chain guide rails at the same time CLICK HERE to add to order.
If you need the later style with the connection fitting please CLICK HERE to order.
I have looked high and low for a good set of METRIC nut driver bits that I can use in an electric drill or magnetic screw driver - and have finally found them! Yea - what a great tool for working around Mercedes - especially if you have one of the new compact and light weight Lithium-Ion Rechargeable drills. Until recently I have not used rechargeable drills much when working on cars because the ones that had enough torque were always too heavy and bulky. Now we have the high torque and light weight of these new technology drills and I am now a convert. I use these bits in my new compact drill almost every day working on all kinds of Mercedes Benz. What a great combination and I highly recommend it to anyone who works on their own cars.
Genuine Mercedes part. This is a great exhaust pipe tip and really dresses up the back end of your Benz. If you look closely you will note it has a deflector which deflects the exhaust down and away from your bumper. Not only does this keep the bumper and rear body panel clean, it also keeps the rear part of the tip that you see free of soot and oil. This tip fits rear 6 cylinder and early V/8 gas mufflers with twin tips. The INSIDE diameter of this exhaust tip is just two inches.
The tips fit tightly over the muffler pipe ends. You may need to cut a short piece off the the factory pipe for best fit. I recommend you drill a small hole and secure the new chrome tip with a sheet metal screw to prevent it from slipping off.
SKU: GEG-COMRECTMercedes use a lot of Metric Allen Head bolts especially on their engines. If you are going to work on them yourself one of the first things you will need is a good assortment. Start with a 3/8 inch drive socket set as shown. These are inexpensive but well made sockets from China - most common sizes 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 10 mm. They can be cut and modified for special applications.
SKU: TUL-COMMASS
New Vacuum testing gauge with fittings in hard plastic case. This is a very nice gauge will a 4 inch diameter face that is easy to read from a distance. Use this on your diesel to test for vacuum pump operation and to isolate major problem areas. Use this on your gas engine to check for intake leaks, valve timing problems, ignition timing, and fuel injection problems. Can also test low pressure fuel pumps. Gauge reads to 28 inch Hg Vacuum and 0-10 psig pressure.
PLEASE NOTE: This gauge can only test for a working vacuum source. It cannot test for vacuum leaks in individual vacuum components, such as door lock actuators, fuel shut off valve, climate control actuators, etc. To isolate leaks in individual vacuum components you will need a hand pump tester.
New BEHR German fan clutch replacement for 113,111, 108 and 109 chassis gas engines from 1968 to 1973, all 114 and 115 gas and diesel, all 123 gas and diesel engines 1977 to 1983 and 1981 to 1983 126 300SD. PLEASE NOTE: This clutch is for engines that have the aluminum metal fans. If you have the newer multi-blade nylon fan then you will need a different type. This clutch lists new for $272.00. If your fan clutch is loose, making noise, or your engine is overheating this is your chance to replace it for a very good price.
PLEASE NOTE: This will not fit 107, 116, or 126 V8 gas engines.
SKU: GEG-COMMFCA