We offer these for only $2.00 with any order of other items totaling more than $25.00 (excluding shipping). Please do not add to cart unless you order meets these requirements. LIMIT ONE PER CUSTOMER AT THIS PRICE. These are the zip ties we have all been looking for. They have a super sticky tape of the foot of the tie so you can stick them anywhere in your engine compartment without having to drill a hole in the inner fender panel. (NOTE: Be sure to thoroughly clean the surface BEFORE installing). The other neat thing is that these zip ties can be loosened back up (just like the factory type) to remove the wire bundle or anything else you need to secure. Sold in packs of 6. You will love these!
This is the tool I love to use when troubleshooting engine operating temperature problems. You can stand back and aim the beam right on a spot on the radiator or engine to get an exact temperature reading. This can indicate whether or not your radiator is plugged and confirm if your temperature gauge is accurate or not.
If you are running SVO it can give you accurate readings of the temperature of your oil - both during filtering and coming out of your boost heater.
Features:
NEW LOCTITE PRODUCT - AUGUST PROMO! If you have read very many of my manuals and instructions you already know how much I detest Silicone Gasket Sealant. I know there are places for silicone (ie bath tub caulking, etc), but it should not be used on internal combustion engines!
If you plan to change coolant hoses this is a must have labor saving tool. This is one cleverly designed tool. Could not have done it better myself. I actually use to make a couple different types before I found this one. If you have ever tried to remove a radiator hose corroded to an aluminum housing you know what I am talking about and you will love this tool. Great when changing radiator hoses, especially the short hose. 8 inches in length.
It will get those stuck radiator hoses loose and off in seconds...
This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.
Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.
This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.
Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.
If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.
If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.
It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.
In all my years of working around engines the one thing that absolutely drives me crazy is barbed hose fittings. This even got worse in recents years as many SVO WVO kit makers would send our their components with barbed hose fittings! Just try to remove a rubber fuel hose from a barbed fitting after is has been clamped down, or not even clamped down. Try to remove it after a few months when the hose has been heated and it is even worse!. You end up having to cut the hose off and if you are not careful you can nick the barb and the new hose will leak.
Almost all Mercedes gas and diesel engines from the late 50's up to the early 90's used pressed in steel pins to hold the timing chain guide rails in position (inside the engine block). To easily remove these you can use a slide hammer IF the engine is out of the car!!! In the real world of old cars, timing chain guide rails often have to be replaced with the engine in the car! There is no room between the front of the engine and the radiator to get any type of slide hammer or long puller tool to work.
This 400 plus page guide covers factory time repair estimates for most common jobs on Mercedes Models produced during the 1960s. Covers chassis 111 sedans, coupes and convertibles, 112, 113, 108, 109 and early 114 and 115 models. Pages are laid out in chart format listing jobs and time estimates in column format.
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1971 time manual
This is one of the best built fluid extractors I have seen. As is it works great for drawing power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc. out of their reservoirs. If you attach a hard plastic line on the end (you will need to fabricate a fitting reducer) you can even draw transmission and engine oil. It works great for extracting trans fluid when it has been overfilled. Can be used to add new fluids. You can add transmission fluid carefully to get just the right amount without spilling all over the place. :-)
There are nice measurng marks on the outside of the plastic tub. The pump rod is made from brass and both end caps are threaded aluminum (so you can remove them for cleaning and inspection.
Not only does this set include almost 100 pieces but it includes metric sized allen (hex) bits and even an attachment to remove a wing nut! How cool is that? Most kits don't contain metric sizes. There are probably enough screwdriver bits in this kit to last you for a very long. Comes in nice molded red case.
Installing steel threaded spark plugs in aluminum heads is risky business. If you are not careful it is easy to damage the fragile aluminum threads. In a few cases I have seen spark plugs blow out of their holes while the engine is running. And does that ever make a loud racket! Heavy handed mechanics often cross thread the plugs during a tune-up and you wont even know it until you go to replace the plugs at some later date.
Here is a great set of metric wrenches at a fantastic price that you can afford to cut, grind, heat and bend for all those instances where you need a specical wrench to get into a tight place. These are a black oxide finish so you won't have a problem with the chrome chipping or peeling off after modification. They are made in India and I have found they are a little tougher than the cheap sets coming out of China. Sizes range from 6 mm to 24 mm. The other nice thing about these wrenches is the open end heads are thinner than most other wrenches and will allow you to get onto narrower nuts. And if they are still too thick you can grind them thinner!!
Every tool box should have this set!
How many times have we (and I am talking about myself here) done an oil change on our vehicle, looked at the odometer and said to ourselves, I will write the mileage down later. I know that I have even tried to memorize the mileage, only to discover a couple months down the road that I am asking myself, Was that 82 or 83 thousand miles?
Applies to testing vacuum problems and bleeding brakes on all chassis Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201 and 124 chassis. You have asked for it so we decided to deliver. Here is my recommendation for the best vacuum test pump you can buy for the money. Over the years Ive used three different types of vacuum hand pump testers and out of these three this one has proven to be the best all around. It has the best feel of the grip when pumping, the greatest amount of vacuum created at each pump stroke and the highest durability. This unit has a brass body and is very well built. Must better than the Mighty Vac plastic units.
These are my favorite German hose clamps. They tighten securely, don't cut into the hose, and don't rust or break. If you are working on the fuel system of any Mercedes I recommend you have these clamps on had. Just get ride of those old rusty phillips head screw clamps or worse yet - the US style clamps with holes that cut into the rubber. These clamps will work on all 8 mm hose, 5/16 and 3/8 US spec fuel or coolant hose.
For use with our all fuel specification SUPER FUEL HOSE. CLICK HERE to read more. Great to have on hand if you are planning to build your own diesel to SVO conversion.
I have looked high and low for a good set of METRIC nut driver bits that I can use in an electric drill or magnetic screw driver - and have finally found them! Yea - what a great tool for working around Mercedes - especially if you have one of the new compact and light weight Lithium-Ion Rechargeable drills. Until recently I have not used rechargeable drills much when working on cars because the ones that had enough torque were always too heavy and bulky. Now we have the high torque and light weight of these new technology drills and I am now a convert. I use these bits in my new compact drill almost every day working on all kinds of Mercedes Benz. What a great combination and I highly recommend it to anyone who works on their own cars.
Mercedes use a lot of Metric Allen Head bolts especially on their engines. If you are going to work on them yourself one of the first things you will need is a good assortment. Start with a 3/8 inch drive socket set as shown. These are inexpensive but well made sockets from China - most common sizes 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 10 mm. They can be cut and modified for special applications.
SKU: TUL-COMMASS
New Vacuum testing gauge with fittings in hard plastic case. This is a very nice gauge will a 4 inch diameter face that is easy to read from a distance. Use this on your diesel to test for vacuum pump operation and to isolate major problem areas. Use this on your gas engine to check for intake leaks, valve timing problems, ignition timing, and fuel injection problems. Can also test low pressure fuel pumps. Gauge reads to 28 inch Hg Vacuum and 0-10 psig pressure.
PLEASE NOTE: This gauge can only test for a working vacuum source. It cannot test for vacuum leaks in individual vacuum components, such as door lock actuators, fuel shut off valve, climate control actuators, etc. To isolate leaks in individual vacuum components you will need a hand pump tester.
FITS THE FOLLOWING: All models PON, FIN, P55, 110, 111, 112, 113, 108, 109, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, 124, 126, and 201 chassis. Here is my all time favorite gasket maker and sealant. You may already know how I feel about RTV silicone products (I think they should be outlawed!). We have had a number of our customers ask us where to get this so we decided to offer it on our website.
This is the ultimate gasket sealant to use where there is no gasket. Examples are the rear end center section cover plate and aluminum pan to engine block. This also makes an excellent gasket sealant where you do have a gasket - you only need a thin coat and it does not string out and fall into the engine like silicone products.
This tube will last you forever. Great product!