Ponton

Very rare engine service manual covering the 4 cylinder diesels of the 1950s and early 1960s. These are unique engines and require special maintenance. A great chance to add this to you collection.

This very rare parts manual covers every spare part on the 190D Ponton. These are fun cars to own and this a must have resource guide. Excellent used condition.

• Type 190 D
• Edition B
• Production B 1959
• 499 Pages

This rare dealer parts manual covers all the parts on a 220S Ponton. This is a must have if you collect these neat round bodies. Very good internal used condition. Some tape marks on back edge.

Type 220S

Edition B

Spare parts list

Production date May 1957

664 Pages

Beautiful original factory spare parts manual that covers the 190SL Convertible. Covers every part on the car including engine, transmission, suspension, body and trim. This is a must have addition for any serious 190SL collector.

• Edition D
• 190SL SPARE PARTS LIST
• 677 pages
• Published January 1963

This very rare parts book is huge and covers Type 180b 180c 180Db 180Dc models. Complete listing of all engine, transmisssion, suspension and body parts. Almost 1000 pages! Very good used original condition.

• A
• Type 190 b – 180c – 180Db – 180Dc
• 971 Pages
• Spare Parts Lists

This is a must have for any owner of an older Mercedes gas engine model. This applies to all 4, 6 and 8 cylinder from the mid 1950s to the mid 1980s. The manual covers prevention of thread damage and how to repair a totally destroyed spark plug hole. The thread chaser included with the manual with help clean up any minor damage and prevent major problems. Never force a spark plug into the threads and if a plug comes out hard the threads MUST be cleaned with a chaser before you reinstall a new plug.

Diesel purge is amazing stuff! It is getting so popular that we have decided to offer it on the website individually, so now you can buy per can. This injection cleaner is run directly through the fuel system in the engine compartment. It is not a fuel tank additive. Does not include instructions or bypass hose. If you want more than one can just change your quantity in the shopping cart.

These are the zip ties we have all been looking for. They have a super sticky tape of the foot of the tie so you can stick them anywhere in your engine compartment without having to drill a hole in the inner fender panel. (NOTE: Be sure to thoroughly clean the surface BEFORE installing). The other neat thing is that these zip ties can be loosened back up (just like the factory type) to remove the wire bundle or anything else you need to secure. Sold in packs of 6. You will love these!

This is the tool I love to use when troubleshooting engine operating temperature problems. You can stand back and aim the beam right on a spot on the radiator or engine to get an exact temperature reading. This can indicate whether or not your radiator is plugged and confirm if your temperature gauge is accurate or not.

If you are running SVO it can give you accurate readings of the temperature of your oil - both during filtering and coming out of your boost heater.

Features:

Used Webasto sunroof assembly with cross bars and chrome handle as shown. Bars and mechanism are good but fabric will need to be replaced of course.

If you have read very many of my manuals and instructions you already know how much I detest Silicone Gasket Sealant. I know there are places for silicone (ie bath tub caulking, etc), but it should not be used on internal combustion engines!

Applies to all Mercedes, PON FIN Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. Here is a kit you will love to have around the shop. If you don't like using those poor quality US hose clamps (the kind that cut into the hose) then here is a chance to have spare quality (no nick) hose clamps for those fuel and coolant related repairs. Kit comes with  large size hose clamp. Hose clamp size is 32-50/9.

Applies to all Mercedes, PON FIN Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. Here is a kit you will love to have around the shop. If you don't like using those poor quality US hose clamps (the kind that cut into the hose) then here is a chance to have spare quality (no nick) hose clamps for those fuel and coolant related repairs. Kit comes with 10 medium size hose clamp. Hose clamp size is 16-27/9.

Great to carry in trunk for emergencies. Nice case. No instructions included with this kit. Bulbs are applicable to most models from the early 70's to late 80's.

This kit includes:

This bulb is a single element bulb that is used in the brake light, rear turn signal and your rear back up lens. It's a very universal bulb. Fits mid 60s to 90s Mercedes.

This is a 3 piece scribe and pick tool set - great for marking aluminum and steel.

Heat shrink tubing is very handing to have if you are doing any wire connections or splicing. This tubing can go over the splice or solder joint and when heat is applied from a heat gun it will shrink right down tight to the joint and protect it from shorts and corrosion.

This circuit tester has a long 7 inch point to get into hard to reach places. Accordion cord extends up to 12 feet! Wow!

This is a set of metric nut drivers. It come in 7 different handy sizes and is even color coded. Sizes include 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11mm.

If you plan to change coolant hoses this is a must have labor saving tool. This is one cleverly designed tool. Could not have done it better myself. I actually use to make a couple different types before I found this one. If you have ever tried to remove a radiator hose corroded to an aluminum housing you know what I am talking about and you will love this tool. Great when changing radiator hoses, especially the short hose. 8 inches in length.

It will get those stuck radiator hoses loose and off in seconds...

I like this - permanent - threadlocker because it is super strong but can still be removed with a heavy handed breaker bar. This is a very large bottle for the price and is a must have for Mercedes diesel owners. I use it anytime I am doing major repair work on an engine or transmission. Great for front crank bolt, cam bolt, torque converter bolts, injection pump mounting nuts, front engine accessories, brake caliper bolts, front suspension, etc. Anything that you can just not afford to come loose.

This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.

Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.

This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.

Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.

If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.

If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.

Here is an inexpensive set of cleaning brushes that really get down in the crevices. The plastic one is good for exterior cleaning around the window and body trim. The brass is good for cleaning engine parts you don't want to scratech. The steel one is excellent if you are doing some rust repair.

If you are going to work on your diesel fuel injectors you are going to need a torque wrench. If you are going to tighten your alloy wheel lug bolts properly you should use a torque wrench. In fact if you do your own work you should have a 1/2 inch clicker torque wrench in your tool box. I know why you don't have one. They tend to be expensive for the limited amount you might use one. Well, now you can get a quality one for a very good price. This is a special offer and we only have a limited number in stock.

It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.

 

This is the first release from Kent Bergsmas new Advanced DIY Mechanic Series of repair manuals. This printed and wire bound guide will teach you everything you have ever wanted to know about how your pre-glow system works, how to quickly diagnose faults, how to repair and replace failed parts, how to prevent further problems, and how to upgrade a sluggish glow plug system.

The manual is printed in an 8.5 x 7 inch size and is 42 pages in length with 80 drawings, photos and illustrations. Knowing that this manual will be handled many times we have added a clear plastic front and back cover to minimize dirt and grease contamination. It is also printed on heavier 32 lb. bright white stock paper. Table of contents include:

Almost all Mercedes gas and diesel engines from the late 50's up to the early 90's used pressed in steel pins to hold the timing chain guide rails in position (inside the engine block). To easily remove these you can use a slide hammer IF the engine is out of the car!!! In the real world of old cars, timing chain guide rails often have to be replaced with the engine in the car! There is no room between the front of the engine and the radiator to get any type of slide hammer or long puller tool to work.

This is one of the best built fluid extractors I have seen. As is it works great for drawing power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc. out of their reservoirs. If you attach a hard plastic line on the end (you will need to fabricate a fitting reducer) you can even draw transmission and engine oil. It works great for extracting trans fluid when it has been overfilled. Can be used to add new fluids. You can add transmission fluid carefully to get just the right amount without spilling all over the place. :-)

There are nice measurng marks on the outside of the plastic tub. The pump rod is made from brass and both end caps are threaded aluminum (so you can remove them for cleaning and inspection.