Kent is often asked what are the most important SEALANTS AND ADESIVES to have around for your Benz. These are his top 5 picks. This kit includes the following 5 products:

Here is what Kent says about these wrenches: " I am very picky about the "feel" and "fit" of my combination wrenches. Some are just too smooth and slippery, while others just don't feel good in your hands. Then their are those who have real thick heads that make it hard to get on close quarter nuts and bolts (like Kobalt). A lot of the real cheap wrenches don't fit tight on the heads, thus causing rounding off of the heads (like a lot of them)!!

5 pieces 11" to 16" long misc ends from our cutoff stock. From 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch diameter. These can be used on various vacuum connections. Maybe some small fuel hose included. Yes, Kent does use fuel hose on vacuum systems as it will not swell and rot like regular rubber vacuum hose.

PLEASE NOTE: Not to be used for diesel fuel injector fuel return hoses!!

For 14mm and 18mm spark plugs. These work on the older and the newer ( Up to 1995) Mercedes spark plug holes. Use a 13/16 inch deep socket to drive the chaser.

This is a very handy smaller torque wrench to have in your tool box. It will do fuel injectors but is not quite big enough to torque wheel lug bolts. Range is 5 to 80 foot pounds. To order a 1/2 drive torque wrench CLICK HERE.

Nice set of heavy duty pick tools with rubberized handles. They have hardened steel tips which allow for more prying and twisting with less tendency to bend the tips.

Once an engine or transmission gets over 20 years old the seals start to fail and will eventually leak. Many times it's not from wear on the seal lip, but rather from age. I said this many times that age is the big killer when it comes to something made of rubber, plastic or any type of synthetic flexible material.

The rear crankshaft seal is one such problem area on older Mercedes gas and diesel engines. if you have one of the old 616 or 617 diesel engines it's very difficult to change the rear crank seal without removing engine from the car. But many other early models including all those diesels produced from 1986 onward have a replaceable rear crank seal that can be removed and replaced once the transmission is pulled out of the car.

Replace those nuts that keep loosening up with nylock metric nuts that just won't come off. Inside the door panel on the window regulators. Around the engine compartment. Air filter housing nuts. etc. etc.

Kent finally found a hand held torch that REALLY works. And you need a torch like this when working on old cars... one that auto starts easily (like on the first click!), one that does not flame out when you hold it close to the surface, one is easy to adjust the flame and temp, and one that really puts out the heat when needed.

Comes with rapid Piezo start and fine flame adjustment control.

I have used a lot of different clamping tools over the years to prevent fluids from leaking out when removing coolant, fuel, or brake fluid hoses. Most work ok. Some are hard to use in tight places.  Many do not stop every last drip from coming out of the hose. Imagine my excitement a couple years ago when I saw a clamping tool combined with a vise grip like mechanism.  I immediate thought - not that is a tool and a half!  Sure enough after using it it has proven to be the best I have ever used.  And yes, it will stop every drip.... to is super easy to get into tight places and easily clamp and unclamp. The clamp bars swivel are are big enough to work on radiator hoses and strong enough to work on smaller heater and fuel hoses.

Kent could not live without zip ties. Almost anyone who has work on cars, boats, or airplanes will agree. Here is a 100 pak of the popular 8 inch size.

This set of 5 pick tools have very thin and sharp points. The variety of angles available allows you to get into almost anywhere to remove and o-ring, sealing ring or other small part. Comes in protective plastic case.

This kit will help you get a new hood pad installed properly in your older Benz. If you do not use the proper procedure or the right glue the hood pad will be falling down again soon. This kit comes with the following:

Special contact adhesive (enough to do one hood pad)

• Stiff plastic scraper to help get the old pad off without damaging the hood
• 2 - 2 inch brushes to spread the glue
• 2 pairs of nitrile gloves
• Illustrated instructions

Be sure to watch Kent's video on hood pad replacement. Click on the video link on the main tech help page.

We also carry hood pads for most older Mercedes.  Just type "hood pad" in the search box to view selection.