These rubber end plugs can be used to cap off your vacuum on the end of a line or on certain components. FOR USE ON VACUUM SYSTEM ONLY. These are NOT to be used on fuel injectors.
When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings were swollen and would just not stay connected? This is a L shaped fitting that fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.
When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings or hose were swollen and would just not stay connected? Here is some extra vacuum hose to fix your problem. Fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.
Comes in a 2 meter roll.
When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil fiter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings were swollen and would just not stay connected? This is a Y shaped fitting that fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.
When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil fiter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings were swollen and would just not stay connected? This is a + shaped fitting that fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.
Having heater problems? Does your heater have a mind of its own. Then your 201 chassis vacuum controlled heater valve may be bad. There is no way we can guarantee this will fix your heater problems, but considering the price and the ease of replacement it is a good place to start. If the new valve does not improve your system then look for a vacuum leak or problem with your climate control switch panel. No instructions available. Valve is located on passenger side just forward of your firewall. Fits ALL 201 chassis 1984 to 1993.
Fits the following: All 116 126 126 Chassis Diesels from 1977-1985. This is a brand new Genuine Mercedes Steering lock vacuum valve that is located on the back of your ignition lock assembly. The vacuum lines that control your engine shutoff go from the engine compartment to this valve at the lock assembly. If you are having problems with the car not shutting off this could be the culprit!
This is that little vacuum valve that always gets it nipples broken off... It is located right behind your thermostat housing on the 1981 to 1985 turbo diesel engines. It controls vacuum going to your EGR valve. When it breaks it will effect the operation of the EGR and it may make your transmission shift hard. This is a genuine OE part.
Brand new Pierburg vacuum pump with new main check valve and gasket included. This lists for $428.00 and we have a few older stock at this special price. Fits 1980 to 1985 123 chassis 240D, 300D, 300CD and 300TD as well as 126 chassis 300SD 1981 to 1985. Just make sure your current pump only has one (1) main hose connection to the pump.
2007-12-05ALERT! Before you replace your suspected failing brake booster you might want to change the o-ring seal between the master cylinder and booster first. I have seen more than one expensive booster replaced when it was only a $2.00 o-ring. If your engine is producing good vacuum to the booster but your brake pedal still feels hard then at least check this o-ring.
This is my favorite set of tweezers for helping to hold small parts in place for assembly. The wide ones are particularly helpful when a second hand is needed to hold a small bolt or screw in place. Comes with seven different tweezers as shown. Good for car work. Not good for pulling hair!
Here is a little specialty part that almost every 617 turbo diesel owner needs or will need!. This plastic vacuum pin block is located on the top of the valve cover on 1981 to 1984 5 cylinder turbo diesel engines (except some late 1984 California models). With age and heat these little pins are now breaking off right and left. This is a brand new Mercedes part. It has 5 pins on one side and 6 pins on the other. We also carry a new rubber connector that goes on the outside of this pin block. CLICK HERE to view rubber connector.
Used, engine driven vacuum pump that mechanically appears to be in good condition. Please note that I cannot ascertain the condition of the internal rubber diaphram as this unit has not been disassembled. We do have an inexpensive rebuild kit available if you would like that type of assurance, but I'm selling this as a used unknown condition and it is priced accordingly.
Good used engine driven vacuum pump with new diaphram installed. Recent new check valves also installed. Good bearing and drive mechanism. Comes with new gasket and ready to install. Fits 240D and 300D 1974 to 1976 only.
Excellent used proportional valve for controling vacuum to your transmission for proper shifts. This plastic unit was used on 123 and 126 chassis turbo diesels from 1981-1984. Some California models used a different unit. This is a good used unit if you are having problems with improper shift in your 300D or 300SD turbo transmission this could be the culprit.
This guide is written specifically for owners of 123 and 126 diesels up to 1985. There are some sections that apply to the 115 and 116 chassis but it is not specific to those models. This manual covers understanding how the vacuum system works, common symptoms of trouble, possible causes, and testing and repairing the problems. Deals mostly with issues from the firewall forward like testing the vacuum pump, repairing shutoff problems, finding leaks, etc.
For all 123 chassis cars with vacuum door locks from 1977 to 1985. Now you can finally fix those pesky vacuum door locks yourself! Failure is almost always caused by vacuum leaks in the system. This 28 page manual with 55 photographs will take you step by step through the process of quickly finding and repairing those leaks. Starting at the firewall and working all the way to the trunk/deck of your car, I will show you how to isolate the problems even without having to take the door panels off.
To aid in trouble shooting you will need to acquire an inexpensive vacuum hand pump. Normal hand tools are the only other things you will need. For 1977 to 1980 cars I even have vacuum actuator repair kits available so you can replace any cracked diaphragms you may find.
Applies to testing vacuum problems and bleeding brakes on all chassis Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201 and 124 chassis. You have asked for it so we decided to deliver. Here is my recommendation for the best vacuum test pump you can buy for the money. Over the years Ive used three different types of vacuum hand pump testers and out of these three this one has proven to be the best all around. It has the best feel of the grip when pumping, the greatest amount of vacuum created at each pump stroke and the highest durability. This unit has a brass body and is very well built. Must better than the Mighty Vac plastic units.
Excellent used working vacuum pump assembly with valuable working check valve included. This unit fits all 123 and 126 chassis 1981-1985 with the 5 cylinder turbo diesel engines. Also fits 1981 to 1983 240D. NOTE: Before purchasing be sure that you current unit looks just like this one. It is not uncommon that you could have an older style diesel engine in your Benz. If you are experiencing hard breaking and other vacuum related problems, it may be time to replace your ailing vacuum pump.
SKU: VCM-COMTDVP
Your diesel not shutting off with the key?
New Vacuum testing gauge with fittings in hard plastic case. This is a very nice gauge will a 4 inch diameter face that is easy to read from a distance. Use this on your diesel to test for vacuum pump operation and to isolate major problem areas. Use this on your gas engine to check for intake leaks, valve timing problems, ignition timing, and fuel injection problems. Can also test low pressure fuel pumps. Gauge reads to 28 inch Hg Vacuum and 0-10 psig pressure.
PLEASE NOTE: This gauge can only test for a working vacuum source. It cannot test for vacuum leaks in individual vacuum components, such as door lock actuators, fuel shut off valve, climate control actuators, etc. To isolate leaks in individual vacuum components you will need a hand pump tester.
This special vacuum switching valve is found on most Mercedes diesels from 1980 to 1985. 240D, 300D, 300CD, 300TD and 300SD. Some 85 models do not use this type of valve. On most turbo diesel engines there are two of these located under the black plastic cover on the center top of the valve cover. Most of the time you will find the lever arms worn off. Others may be full of vacuum leaks due to heat and age.
These valves control important functions related to the EGR valve and the automatic transmission. If yours look aged or worn I would recommend you replace them
SKU: VCM-COM32VV
Genuine O.E.M. Mercedes part. Hard to find rubber connector for multiple vacuum lines located at top of valve cover. This is a brand new genuine Mercedes OEM part. Fits 123 and 126 chassis with 5 cylinder diesels from 1981 to 1984. 300D, 300CD, 300TD and 300SD. Leaks at this connector will cause leaks in your vacuum system leading to fault EGR valve and possible hard or jerky transmission shifting. Easy to replace. Check to see if yours in cracked or if the hard vacuum lines do not hold tight in the rubber. If you plastic pin block that this plugs into is brittle or broken CLICK HERE to order that part as well.
This is a brand new Genuine Mercedes 3 way Vacuum change over valve. It is located in the engine compartment. It fits almost every chassis Mercedes, both gas and diesel models, from the 60’s up through the late 90’s. It has multiple uses such as EGR valve function, transmission control, etc.
SKU: VCM-COMTWV
We have finally found a source for hard plastic vacuum line! This is genuine Mercedes Benz brand line and is transparent with a yellow stripe. It is found on all 107 116 123 124 126 201 chassis. It is a little more expensive than the other hard vacuum line we carry, so we are selling it in a ONE METER length. It can be used anywhere in the engine compartment.
SKU: VCM-COMMVL
We have finally found a source for the engine compartment hard vacuum line! This vacuum line is white and is 4 mm in size. It is used on all 107 108 109 110 111 113 114 115 116 123 124 126 chassis. You can use it to replace any hard vacuum line on the engine. We are selling it in a 3 meter roll, more than enough to do any replacement job, because we got it at such a good price. It is made by Cohline and is very good quality.
SKU: VCM-COMHVL
FITS ALL 123 chassis cars from 1977 to 1985 and ALL 126 Chassis cars from 1981-1991, both Gasoline and Diesel models! If you are not sure of your application just pop your hood to see if you have one inline on the driver's side of the engine compartment. This check valve helps to hold vacuum in your door lock system. If not working properly vacuum can leak out of the system after you shut the engine off. Check by blowing and then sucking on the check valve. Air should only pass one way.
SKU: VCM-123VCV
FITS THE FOLLOWING: all 123 chassis coupes, sedans, and wagons from 1981-1985. New OEM door lock actuator (element) for replacing the leaking one that is keeping your door locks from working properly. Be sure and buy my 123 vacuum door lock repair guide which will show you how to test for leaks and remove your door panels to get to these units. SKU: VCM-123LVA
Fits late model 123 sedans and coupes 1981 to 1985. Be sure you gas door lock actuator matches this before ordered. This is a new plastic sealed unit as used on the later models. SKU: VCM-123FDL
Good used controller assembly that operates the vacuum for the Ponton Hydrak transmission. These parts were removed from a very good fully working Hydrak transmission from a 1960 220SE coupe. The owner wanted his car converted to a standard 4 speed.