Brakes

PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT A PRODUCT, JUST INFORMATION WE WILL BE PROVIDING ON THE WEBSITE. STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION! This question could well be the number one request we receive from new customers. The question seems to be popping up frequently now as many people are buying these old diesels for the first time hoping to convert them to run on alternative fuel. It is a great idea and can be a rewarding endevour IF you find the right car to begin with and are willing and able to repair it yourself.

I like this - permanent - threadlocker because it is super strong but can still be removed with a heavy handed breaker bar. This is a very large bottle for the price and is a must have for Mercedes diesel owners. I use it anytime I am doing major repair work on an engine or transmission. Great for front crank bolt, cam bolt, torque converter bolts, injection pump mounting nuts, front engine accessories, brake caliper bolts, front suspension, etc. Anything that you can just not afford to come loose.

This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.

Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.

This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.

Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.

Here is an inexpensive set of cleaning brushes that really get down in the crevices. The plastic one is good for exterior cleaning around the window and body trim. The brass is good for cleaning engine parts you don't want to scratech. The steel one is excellent if you are doing some rust repair.

If you are going to work on your diesel fuel injectors you are going to need a torque wrench. If you are going to tighten your alloy wheel lug bolts properly you should use a torque wrench. In fact if you do your own work you should have a 1/2 inch clicker torque wrench in your tool box. I know why you don't have one. They tend to be expensive for the limited amount you might use one. Well, now you can get a quality one for a very good price. This is a special offer and we only have a limited number in stock.

It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.

 

GARAGE SALE ITEM! New set of Front Wheel Seals, made by Reinz. Fit most 201 and 124 Chassis up to 1993.

GARAGE SALE ITEM! new Rear Brake Pad set, made by Textar. Fits only 124 Chassis 300TE Wagon from 199-1993.

GARAGE SALE ITEM! Cohline brand new rear brake hose, one only. Fits ONLY 1965-1973 300SEL 109 Chassis.

These are Bendix brand front calipers - newly rebuilt and sold as a set (both left and right side front). Hard to find. Fits all 123 chassis 1977 to 1985. Please note there is NO CORE CHARGE. That means you do not have to deal with the hassle of having to return your old dirty units. What a relief!

IMPORTANT: Front calipers should always be replaced as a set. These include the new hard to find Bendix hardware kit with correct pins and clips.

We have choosen to no longer sell 123 chassis front brake pads by vin number alone. There have been too many discrepencies due to vin number confusion and swapping front calipers on these older models. We will now sell 123 front brake pads by THICKNESS. These thinner pads MEASURE 14 mm total thickness and were used on the early models up to 1979-80. The thicker pads were used on later models such as the 300D turbo and they measure 17 to 18 mm. Note: The thicker pads WILL NOT go into the calipers that were designed for the thinner pads.

PLEASE NOTE: If you are not sure and don't want to take the time to inspect/measure your current pads then you can order these thinner pads and be assured they will fit ALL 123 CHASSIS front brakes.

Set of new sensor wires for front brake pads on all 201 and 124 chassis from 1985 to 1993. Only one required per side. These should always be changed when replacing brake pads.

This 400 plus page guide covers factory time repair estimates for most common jobs on Mercedes Models produced during the 1960s. Covers chassis 111 sedans, coupes and convertibles, 112, 113, 108, 109 and early 114 and 115 models. Pages are laid out in chart format listing jobs and time estimates in column format. NOTE: Pages have been removed from original factory binding and placed in medium 3 ring binder for easy of reading.  
Binder itself is not in very good condition but is a standard smaller size.

 This is now a common brake failure item on the older 114 and 115 chassis coupes and sedans from 1968 to 1976. The big problem we are seeing is the the brake master cylinder seals are failing and leaking brake fluid into your booster. If you are losing small amounts of brake fluid and you do not know where it is going - it is inside the booster! When that happens the booster (if not already bad) will fail soon. Just replace it and replace the master cylinder at the same time (they are vin specific so call or email for a quote). This genuine ATE part lists for $468.00.

We also have one good used one available. CLICK HERE to view.

This is one of the best built fluid extractors I have seen. As is it works great for drawing power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc. out of their reservoirs. If you attach a hard plastic line on the end (you will need to fabricate a fitting reducer) you can even draw transmission and engine oil. It works great for extracting trans fluid when it has been overfilled. Can be used to add new fluids. You can add transmission fluid carefully to get just the right amount without spilling all over the place. :-)

There are nice measurng marks on the outside of the plastic tub. The pump rod is made from brass and both end caps are threaded aluminum (so you can remove them for cleaning and inspection.

2007-12-05ALERT! Before you replace your suspected failing brake booster you might want to change the o-ring seal between the master cylinder and booster first. I have seen more than one expensive booster replaced when it was only a $2.00 o-ring. If your engine is producing good vacuum to the booster but your brake pedal still feels hard then at least check this o-ring.

If you need everything for your front hub then this is the best deal. This kit is for ONE SIDE ONLY. Comes with inner and outer wheel bearings, seal, cap, ground clip and pre-load adjusting bolt. Fits right or left side all 116 and 123 up to 1985, and 126 chassis up to 1985 ONLY. These are VERY common wear items on all older chassis that I see come into the shop. Replace at 200,000 miles. We also sell the bearings individually if you do not need the entire kit. Unless you have the proper tools plan to take your hub to a machine shop to have the race pressed in. List price is $73.00.

New front INNER wheel bearing with race for one side only. Fits right or left side all 116, 123 and 126 chassis. This is a VERY common wear item on almost all 123 chassis I see come into the shop. Replace at 200,000 miles. We also sell the inner individually or check our complete kit if you need everything. Unless you have the proper tools plan to take your hub to a machine shop to have the race pressed in. List price is $34.50

Set of 2 Quality German ATE brake rotors. The great thing about Mercedes is that these rotors fit almost all their models from the late 1960s until the late 1980's. This includes 108, 111, 113, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123 and 126 chassis built during those years. These can be easily change by removing the rear calipers. Do not bother machining old rotors. Mercedes always recommends you just replace with new when your old rotors are badly scored - and at our price new is only slightly more than having your old ones turned at a machine shop.

FITS THE FOLLOWING rear brake assemblies both ATE and Bendix: all 107, 108, 109, 111, 113, 114, 115, 116, 123 and 126 chassis from 1969 to 1991. Tired of squeeking or squealing brakes but find you pads are almost new. Many times adding this shim between the caliper piston and the back of the brake pad with stop annoying slow speed brake sqeal. When you add high temp brake pad paste to both sides of the metal shim you can almost guarantee long sweek free service. SOLD IN A SET OF TWO.

This is my favorite set of tweezers for helping to hold small parts in place for assembly. The wide ones are particularly helpful when a second hand is needed to hold a small bolt or screw in place. Comes with seven different tweezers as shown. Good for car work. Not good for pulling hair!

 

If you plan to do much work on your Mercedes these metric wrenches and sockets are very desireable - if not a necessity. If you have wanted to add to your tool box but not spend a lot of money here is your chance. These are not Snap On quality wrenches but if you only work on cars ocassionally these are more than adequate to get the job done. Set includes metric crows feet, metric 3/8 inch drive hex (Allen) sockets, and metric 1/4 inch drive socket set 5 to 14 mm. These items are also available separately. To see a list of all our tools CLICK HERE.

Long drive pin punches are very handy when working on your Benz. The smaller size in this set is particularly helpful when removing and replacing twin pin style brake pads. All steel. Made in India.

New front outer wheel bearing with race for one side only. Fits right or left side all 116, 123 and 126 chassis. This is a VERY common wear item on almost all 123 chassis I see come into the shop. Replace at 200,000 miles. Outers will wear out a lot faster than the inners. We also sell the inner individually or check our complete kit if you need everything. Unless you have the proper tools plan to take your hub to a machine shop to have the race pressed in. List price is $23.68

Not only does this set include almost 100 pieces but it includes metric sized allen (hex) bits and even an attachment to remove a wing nut! How cool is that? Most kits don't contain metric sizes. There are probably enough screwdriver bits in this kit to last you for a very long. Comes in nice molded red case.

Here is a great set of metric wrenches at a fantastic price that you can afford to cut, grind, heat and bend for all those instances where you need a specical wrench to get into a tight place. These are a black oxide finish so you won't have a problem with the chrome chipping or peeling off after modification. They are made in India and I have found they are a little tougher than the cheap sets coming out of China. Sizes range from 6 mm to 24 mm. The other nice thing about these wrenches is the open end heads are thinner than most other wrenches and will allow you to get onto narrower nuts. And if they are still too thick you can grind them thinner!!

Every tool box should have this set!

Here is a brand new set of Rear brake hoses for all 123 chassis 1977-1985 and 126 chassis 1981-1991, both gasoline and diesel models and 116 Chassis 300SD only.

SKU: BRK-COMRBHS

Here is a brand new set of Front brake hoses that fit all 123 chassis from 1977-1985 and 126 chassis from 1981-1991, both gasoline and diesel models.

SKU: BRK-123FBHS

This guide is written specifically for owners of 123 and 126 diesels up to 1985. There are some sections that apply to the 115 and 116 chassis but it is not specific to those models. This manual covers understanding how the vacuum system works, common symptoms of trouble, possible causes, and testing and repairing the problems. Deals mostly with issues from the firewall forward like testing the vacuum pump, repairing shutoff problems, finding leaks, etc.

Can be used to log maintenance on all Mercedes, Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. We are excited here at Mercedessource about our new book release. This is one booklet we believe every Mercedes owner of every model will really appreciate. In fact we know a number of you will want multiple copies. We plan to use the first 30 to 40 around here personally for our own fleet.

How many times have we (and I am talking about myself here) done an oil change on our vehicle, looked at the odometer and said to ourselves, I will write the mileage down later. I know that I have even tried to memorize the mileage, only to discover a couple months down the road that I am asking myself, Was that 82 or 83 thousand miles?