107, Manuals by Kent Bergsma

This product is amazing. It can be used to secure all kinds of things to all kinds of surfaces. Be sure and check out Kent's video showing how he uses in on his cars as well as in and around the shop. For the self stick stuff Kent prefers the actual Velcro Brand.

This kit contains the following:

• 2 feet of Velcro Brand Standard Loop Material - Self stick back
• 2 feet of Velcro Brand Medium stick hook material - self stick back
• 5 individual black straps to secure hoses, wiring, etc. (aftermarket brand)

These five page step-by-step illustrated instructions will walk you through the correct procedure of removing your old worn and cracked door lock rubber diaphragms from the actuator housing and replacing them with new ones. These are procedural instructions only. They do not include the parts you may need and they DO NOT explain how to remove the door panel and take the actuator out of the door or trunk.

Illustrated 6 page step-by-step instructions for proper removal and installation of the modulator upgrade for the years and models noted here. Includes how-to specific details for using the new adjustment cap. These are installation instructions only. They DO NOT include information on adjusting transmission modulating pressure or the vacuum shift controls. Instructions are 8.5 x 11 and will be sent folded in half.

Instructions are specific and highly detailed (showing in color here but printed in Black and White: 

Fits all the models listed below:

If you have ever thought about replacing the seals in your sunroof here is a chance to read the manual so you can gauge the difficultly of the job. Seals and other repair parts can be purchased separately at a later date. Both the front and side seals can be replaced without removing the sunroof panel from the car. That makes replacing those seals relatively easy.

Buy a lemonhead for ten cents when added to any order including other item(s).

Limit 10 per customer

Covers 1965 to 1995 110, 111, 112, 108, 109, 107, 114, 115, 116, 123, 126, 201, 124, and 129 Chassis master cylinder, pads, rotors, calipers and flexible brake hoses

This kit will allow you to remove your dash instrument cluster without having to remove any panels under the dash. You can do it all while sitting in your drivers seat. Specific instructions for each chassis model (see title) are included along with the special removal tools. As an added bonus we are including four of the larger size clear dash bulbs and four of the smaller size clear indicator bulbs at no extra charge. These bulbs are used on the back of your cluster for dash lights, warning lights and indicator lights.

Applies to 111 113 108 109 107 114 116 126 Chassis Mercedes.

This is a must have for any owner of an older Mercedes gas engine model. This applies to all 4 , 6 and 8 cylinder from the mid 1950 s to the mid 1980s. The manual covers prevention of thread damage and how to repair a totally destroyed spark plug hole. Never force a spark plug into the threads and if a plug comes out hard the threads MUST be cleaned with a chaser before you reinstall a new plug.

How many times have we (and I am talking about myself here) done an oil change on our vehicle, looked at the odometer and said to ourselves, I will write the mileage down later. I know that I have even tried to memorize the mileage, only to discover a couple months down the road that I am asking myself, Was that 82 or 83 thousand miles?

Older Mercedes have a very effective emergency brake design which was virtually the same on all models from the late 1960s right up through the early 1990s. The actuating mechanisms are all mechanical and are controlled by a Y cable under the car. This cable is pulled by either a hand or foot operated lever.

Covers 107 108 114 115 116 123 126 201 124 Chassis from 1968 to 1993

This manual is part of our new Advanced DIY Mechanic Series. It covers advanced procedures in simple terms with photos to illustrate every step. The format size is 8.5 x 7 inches. It is printed on 28 pound stock paper and is wire bound to allow it to stay open when on your workbench.

For all 108, 109, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis from 1965 to 1995. I wrote this repair guide to show you how to properly remove your instrument cluster and replace worn or failing components.

Manual by Kent Bergsma

For all 107 chassis SL and SLC built from 1972 to 1989. This repair guide will take you through the process of how to properly remove your heater blower motor and replace the motors two brushes. This is the most common reason for failure. If your blower motor has been intermittent or some days it will not come on until you drive for a while your motor brushes are most likely at the end of their life. This is something you may just want to replace as a preventative measure. 15+ year heater motor brushes are very prone failing at any time. If it has not failed yet it most likely will sometime soon.

Fits all chassis: 107, 114, 115, 116, 123, 126, 201 and 124. This repair manual is written for all Mercedes models from the early 1970s up to the later 1980s. Principles may apply to older pre 1970 chassis as well but most instructions and illustrations are written for the chassis numbers listed above. Is your drivers seat starting to sag more than it use to? Are you finding it is just not comfortable any more on long trips? Maybe it tips to one side and you are constantly trying to compensate your weight to the other side. This manual will show you how you can remove and repair the seat yourself using original Mercedes used parts.

For all 111, 112, 108, 109, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, 126 and 201 chassis (Non tilting roofs up through 1986). Do you have a power sunroof that is working poorly or maybe not at all? Does it move slowly or not at all in the morning, but when it heats up during the day it works just fine? Do you have to assist it by hand to get it fully opened or closed? This 28 page guide with 46 pictures with help you fix those problems. It contains information that you will not see in any other manual. I will take you step by step through all the procedures you'll need to go through to get your electric sunroof working properly again. Written by Kent Bergsma.

FITS THE FOLLOWING: 114, 115, 107, 123 and 126 to 1985 chassis Mercedes that use the rear axles with the crimped sealed cans over the flex joints (spider). Mercedes rear axles of the 1970s and 1980s are extremely robust. I have seen them go over 400,000 miles with no adverse wine and with their original axle boots still in place.

But as these cars age, I am seeing more problems with axle boot deterioration and axle joint failure. This manual will cover the procedures for removing and installing the axle assemblies, options for repair or replacement, and detailed instructions on how to replace the boots.

Can be used to log maintenance on all Mercedes, PON FIN P55 Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. Each of these is a shortened version of our regular maintenance logbook which contains 20 two page entry forms which is enough for 60,000 miles of driving. We are offering this logbook in a 3 pack for those of you who have multiple Mercedes. You know these log books can even be used with other cars with slight modification. At least you will have a detailed record no matter what vehicle you are working on!

For all 107 chassis SL and SLC models built from 1972 to 1989 and all 114 / 115 chassis sedans and coupes from 1968 to 1976. f the front end of your W107 SL or SLC convertible or coupe or 114/115 wanders on the road or thunks when you go over railroad tracks, you most likely need to install a new front sub frame bushing kit.

I see this condition even on real low mileage pristine cars. It is not a function of mileage, but rather of age. From my experience all rubber suspension parts seem to deteriorate when they reach 15 to 18 years old.

Applies 107 chassis SL and SLC 350SL 450SL 450SLC 380SL 380SLC and 560SL.
This repair guide will take you through the process of how to properly remove your heater blower motor and replace the motors two brushes. This is the most common reason for failure. If your blower motor has been intermittent or some days it wont come on until you drive for a while your motor brushes are most likely at the end of their life. This is something you may just want to replace as a preventative measure.

Applies to the following chassis: 111, 108, 109, 107, 116 and 126. Includes 3.5, 4.5, 350, 380, 450, 500, 420, and 560 V8 engines from 1970 to 1991. When Mercedes introduced their small 3.5 liter V8 in 1970 it was hailed as a technological breakthrough in automotive engine design. That same basic design was produced for over 20 years right up into the early 1990s.

The engine itself has proven to be very robust and if maintained properly will run strong for well over 300,000 miles. Time has proven though that these engines do have an Achilles heel and if not attended with preventative action failure can lead to catastrophic results.

Applies to all Mercedes: Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. I have been trying to find a lasting solution to rust problems on old cars ever since 1962. That was when I purchased a 1934 Ford Sedan and brought it home to fix up and drive. I was only 15 at the time, but I certainly did not find the rust holes very attractive in the lower front and rear quarter panels.