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If you have read very many of my manuals and instructions you already know how much I detest Silicone Gasket Sealant. I know there are places for silicone (ie bath tub caulking, etc), but it should not be used on internal combustion engines!

FITS THE FOLLOWING: 108, 109, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, and 126 (up to 1985). Fits all sedans and coupes from these chassis 1965 to 1985. Includes one Genuine OEM Mercedes front rubber seal. No instructions included.

Please note: You only need to open the  sunroof to change this seal. It can be a little tricky to get the new seal in the groove. No instructions included with this seal. It is intended for those who have already done the job. If you need instructions then I recommend you purchase our complete seal kit.

FITS THE FOLLOWING: 108, 109, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, and 126 (up to 1985). Fits all sedans and coupes from these chassis 1965 to 1985. Includes one quality german aftermarket rear rubber seal. No instructions included.

Applies to all Mercedes, PON FIN Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. Here is a kit you will love to have around the shop. If you don't like using those poor quality US hose clamps (the kind that cut into the hose) then here is a chance to have spare quality (no nick) hose clamps for those fuel and coolant related repairs. Kit comes with  large size hose clamp. Hose clamp size is 32-50/9.

Applies to all Mercedes, PON FIN Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. Here is a kit you will love to have around the shop. If you don't like using those poor quality US hose clamps (the kind that cut into the hose) then here is a chance to have spare quality (no nick) hose clamps for those fuel and coolant related repairs. Kit comes with 10 medium size hose clamp. Hose clamp size is 16-27/9.

This size freeze plug fits almost all gas and diesel engines from the early 70s up into the 90s. This includes all 61x and 60x diesel engines, the 103 gas engine in the 190E, 300SE and 300E. It also fits many V8 engines but you should measure your current plug to be sure. This part measures 34 mm in diameter.

We are seeing more freeze plugs rust out from the inside as these engines age. First sign will be a little rust ring around the outside edge of the plug, next sign will be slight coolant loss, and last sign may be catasropic engine over heat. Check your freeze plugs for any sign of deterioration NOW.

Great to carry in trunk for emergencies. Nice case. No instructions included with this kit. Bulbs are applicable to most models from the early 70's to late 80's.

This kit includes:

This bulb is a single element bulb that is used in the brake light, rear turn signal and your rear back up lens. It's a very universal bulb. Fits mid 60s to 90s Mercedes.

These dash light bulbs are small in size and fit a number of dash light applications behind your instrument cluster and in your center dash console.

These small frosted light bulbs are 1.2 watts and fit applications where you want a dimmer light ie, heater control knob 240D and some other center dash lights.

These bulbs are 5 watts and they fit a number of applications for instance in your instrument cluster. Check to see how many you need.

This is a set of 6 front turn signal light bulbs. Fits early 70s to mid 90s Mercedes.

This is a 3 piece scribe and pick tool set - great for marking aluminum and steel.

Heat shrink tubing is very handing to have if you are doing any wire connections or splicing. This tubing can go over the splice or solder joint and when heat is applied from a heat gun it will shrink right down tight to the joint and protect it from shorts and corrosion.

This circuit tester has a long 7 inch point to get into hard to reach places. Accordion cord extends up to 12 feet! Wow!

This is a set of metric nut drivers. It come in 7 different handy sizes and is even color coded. Sizes include 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11mm.

This is one cleverly designed tool. Could not have done it better myself. I actually use to make a couple different types before I found this one. If you have ever tried to remove a radiator hose corroded to an alumium housing you know what I am talking about and you will love this tool. Great when changing radiator hoses, especially the short hose. 8 inches in length.

It will get those stuck radiator hoses loose and off in seconds...

I like this - permanent - threadlocker because it is super strong but can still be removed with a heavy handed breaker bar. This is a very large bottle for the price and is a must have for Mercedes diesel owners. I use it anytime I am doing major repair work on an engine or transmission. Great for front crank bolt, cam bolt, torque converter bolts, injection pump mounting nuts, front engine accessories, brake caliper bolts, front suspension, etc. Anything that you can just not afford to come loose.

This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.

Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.

This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.

Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.

If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.

If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.

Here is an inexpensive set of cleaning brushes that really get down in the crevices. The plastic one is good for exterior cleaning around the window and body trim. The brass is good for cleaning engine parts you don't want to scratech. The steel one is excellent if you are doing some rust repair.

If you are going to work on your diesel fuel injectors you are going to need a torque wrench. If you are going to tighten your alloy wheel lug bolts properly you should use a torque wrench. In fact if you do your own work you should have a 1/2 inch clicker torque wrench in your tool box. I know why you don't have one. They tend to be expensive for the limited amount you might use one. Well, now you can get a quality one for a very good price. This is a special offer and we only have a limited number in stock.

It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.

Almost all Mercedes gas and diesel engines from the late 50's up to the early 90's used pressed in steel pins to hold the timing chain guide rails in position (inside the engine block). To easily remove these you can use a slide hammer IF the engine is out of the car!!! In the real world of old cars, timing chain guide rails often have to be replaced with the engine in the car! There is no room between the front of the engine and the radiator to get any type of slide hammer or long puller tool to work.

GARAGE SALE ITEM! Genuine Mercedes Rear Subframe mount kit for all 107 Chassis from 1972-1989. 280SL 350SL 380SL 450SL 500SL 560SL.

GARAGE SALE ITEM! One Pair of New Heavy Duty Bilstein front shocks. Fits only EARLY 107 Chassis, up to 1985.

This relay provides the delay function on your wiper motor. If your wipers are not working in the first postition on you switch it may mean this relay is bad. It is located behind your instrument cluster up close to the firewall on all 123 chassis. On 126 300SD and 380SE it is located inside the fuse box. BRAND NEW KAE relay. Also fits late 107 380SL and 560SL.

Works on most Early 116, 107, 114, 115 and early 123 models up to the end of the 1970's. This is a genuine Bosch replacement for alternators in those cars that use an internal voltage regulator. If you alternator has a rectangular housing on the outside of the regulator then this is the correct part. DO NOT let anyone tell you to replace your alternator until you have inspected and/or replaced this inexpensive regulator. Even if your old alternator is working pull the regulator and inspect the brushes. If they are worn down short just replace it. This is the best RUN INSURANCE you can get!

This relay provides the delay function on your wiper motor. If your wipers are not working in the first postition on you switch it may mean this relay is bad. It is located behind your instrument cluster up close to the firewall on all 123 chassis. On 126 300SD and 380SE it is located inside the fuse box. Good used working relay. Even if yours is not bad you might want to pick this up for a spare when you need it!

This is one of the best built fluid extractors I have seen. As is it works great for drawing power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc. out of their reservoirs. If you attach a hard plastic line on the end (you will need to fabricate a fitting reducer) you can even draw transmission and engine oil. It works great for extracting trans fluid when it has been overfilled. Can be used to add new fluids. You can add transmission fluid carefully to get just the right amount without spilling all over the place. :-)

There are nice measurng marks on the outside of the plastic tub. The pump rod is made from brass and both end caps are threaded aluminum (so you can remove them for cleaning and inspection.