Suspension & Driveline

This is a common wear item on high mileage 126 chassis. It will start out as a clunking noise when you go over rough ground. When real bad it will be hard to get your car to track right down the road  (it will want to wander). Note this part has a small ball joint that wears out with age and use. Fits all 126 sedans and coupes right front from 1981 to 1991

This is a common wear item on high mileage 126 chassis. It will start out as a clunking noise when you go over rough ground. When real bad it will be hard to get your car to track right down the road  (it will want to wander). Note this part has a small ball joint that wears out with age and use. Fits all 126 sedans and coupes left front from 1981 to 1991

Front suspension overhaul is almost always left until one has fixed everything else on the car. We know that most owners can live with some looseness in the suspension, especially when you consider the age of the 116 chassis. But if you want to restore that great Mercedes factory feel and ride (that we all love!) there is no short cut but to replace all the rubber and wear parts in the lower section of your front suspension. NOTE: This kit does not include the upper control arms as we have found many have already replaced those as they often fail first. If yours have not been replaced and you want the full deal, then we recommend you also order those separately. CLICK HERE.

Front suspension overhaul is almost always left until one has fixed everything else on the car. We know that most owners can live with some looseness in the suspension, especially when you consider the age of the 126 chassis. But if you want to restore that great Mercedes factory feel and ride (that we all love!) there is no short cut but to replace all the rubber and wear parts in the lower section of your front suspension. NOTE: This kit does not include the upper control arms as we have found many have already replaced those as they often fail first. If yours have not been replaced and you want the full deal, then we recommend you also order those separately. CLICK HERE.

Front suspension overhaul is almost always left until one has fixed everything else on the car. We know that most owners can live with some looseness in the suspension, especially when you consider the age of the 123 chassis. But if you want to restore that great Mercedes factory feel and ride (that we all love!) there is no short cut but to replace all the rubber and wear parts in the lower section of your front suspension. NOTE: This kit does not include the upper control arms as we have found many have already replaced those as they often fail first. If yours have not been replaced and you want the full deal, then we recommend you also order those separately. CLICK HERE.

NEW LOCTITE PRODUCT - AUGUST PROMO! If you have read very many of my manuals and instructions you already know how much I detest Silicone Gasket Sealant. I know there are places for silicone (ie bath tub caulking, etc), but it should not be used on internal combustion engines!

This seal and gasket kit will solve your problems with any external or internal (into the engine) leaks at the hydraulic pump (location at the front of the cylinder head). If your hydraulic fluid is disappearing from the tank and you can't see any leaks in your rear suspension - then it is possible the shaft seal of your pump is bad and fluid is leaking into your engine oil (and yes, this is not good!). This same pump is used on all Mercedes self-leveling suspension systems from the late 1970's up through 1991. Your pump will need to be removed from your engine in order to install new seals and gaskets. You should have correct fluid (Mercedes type) and a new fluid filter on hand before you begin. CLICK HERE to order those items.

Common wear point on high mileage 126 front suspension. This is the bushing that connects the inside end of lower control arm to the subframe on all 126 sedans and SEC couples from 1981 to 1991. This is for one side only. You will need to order 2 if you are replacing both sides.

PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT A PRODUCT, JUST INFORMATION WE WILL BE PROVIDING ON THE WEBSITE. STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION! This question could well be the number one request we receive from new customers. The question seems to be popping up frequently now as many people are buying these old diesels for the first time hoping to convert them to run on alternative fuel. It is a great idea and can be a rewarding endevour IF you find the right car to begin with and are willing and able to repair it yourself.

NOTE: This page is currently under construction

As all those good ole 123s age, we are seeing a greater need to replace some or all of the front suspension wear parts. The parts containing metal ball sockets are wearing out due to high mileage. The parts made out of rubber are just failing due to age. If you plan to keep the car and you want it to restore that tight and responsive front end feel, you should consider a front suspension overhaul.

I like this - permanent - threadlocker because it is super strong but can still be removed with a heavy handed breaker bar. This is a very large bottle for the price and is a must have for Mercedes diesel owners. I use it anytime I am doing major repair work on an engine or transmission. Great for front crank bolt, cam bolt, torque converter bolts, injection pump mounting nuts, front engine accessories, brake caliper bolts, front suspension, etc. Anything that you can just not afford to come loose.

This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.

Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.

This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.

Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.

If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.

If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.

Here is an inexpensive set of cleaning brushes that really get down in the crevices. The plastic one is good for exterior cleaning around the window and body trim. The brass is good for cleaning engine parts you don't want to scratech. The steel one is excellent if you are doing some rust repair.

Hard to find original braided hydraulic fuel hose for your 123 wagon. I find this hose to be rotten and needing replacement on almost all 123 wagons I see come into the shop. Enough length included for one replacement. Comes with two new high quality (non-cutting) German hose clamps.

If you are going to work on your diesel fuel injectors you are going to need a torque wrench. If you are going to tighten your alloy wheel lug bolts properly you should use a torque wrench. In fact if you do your own work you should have a 1/2 inch clicker torque wrench in your tool box. I know why you don't have one. They tend to be expensive for the limited amount you might use one. Well, now you can get a quality one for a very good price. This is a special offer and we only have a limited number in stock.

It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.

 

When changing your hydraulic fluid be sure to change this filter. Located under the cap on your hydraulic reservoir tank. Easy to replace. Fits all 300TD wagons 1979 to 1985.

PLEASE NOTE: This can only be shipped UPS ground. It can not be shipped via postal or to foreign addresses. If you have any Mercedes model with hydraulic self leveling suspension from the early 70's up to the early 1990's this is the correct fluid to use. High quality Meyle or Febi Bilstein product from Germany. Any other type of fluid can damage the seals and score your pump. Believe it or not, I have seen transmission fluid, jack fluid, and even engine oil in these systems. If your fluid is old and dark it is time to flush it out. Order 3 liters if you are going to do a complete fluid change (you will have a little left over). At the same time you should change the filter located in the top of the fluid tank. CLICK HERE to order filter.

GARAGE SALE ITEM! New Idler arm repair kit, made by Meyle, for ALL 201 Chassis gasoline and diesel, from 1984-1993.

GARAGE SALE ITEM! New Front Wheel Bearing kit, made by SKF, for all 123 Chassis from 1977-1985.

GARAGE SALE ITEM! Lemforder brand Front driveline flex disk kit, new in box, for only early 201 chassis from 1984-1986, gas and diesel.

GARAGE SALE ITEM! Brand New Lemforder Lower front ball joint. Fits Right or left side. You are buying one only!

Refurbished hydraulic rear suspension pump. These are enormously expensive to replace if purchased new. This unit has been taken apart, cleaned and inspected and new outer oring and new shaft seal have been installed. Inside of the pump is in good condtion with no scoring or adverse wear. Pump mechanicals are in good used condition. Comes with gasket and ready to install.

This kit contains everything you need to reseal your hydraulic suspension pump. It includes the factory input shaft seal and hard to find orings to seal the cover and inside the pump. Comes with instructions. If your shaft seal is bad you could be leaking hydraulic fluid into your engine... not good! All these pumps are now 20 plus years or older. They all need resealing if they have never been opened.

Note: This is only a reseal kit. If the inside of your pump is badly worn or scored this kit will not fix your problems. New pumps are very very expensive. We have only a couple good used pumps available. CLICK HERE to view.

This kit can be used when removing the hydraulic rear suspension pump from a 617 5 cylinder diesel engine. When installing standard springs and shocks in a wagon the hydraulic pump must be removed from the front of the head. This is a supplement to our TD rear suspension conversion kit. You have the option of making your own cover plate or if you do not have easy access to the materials and tools needed to make your own we suggest you purchase this kit.

Comes with predrilled aluminum plate, correct gasket, and four mounting bolts of the correct length.

This 400 plus page guide covers factory time repair estimates for most common jobs on Mercedes Models produced during the 1960s. Covers chassis 111 sedans, coupes and convertibles, 112, 113, 108, 109 and early 114 and 115 models. Pages are laid out in chart format listing jobs and time estimates in column format. NOTE: Pages have been removed from original factory binding and placed in medium 3 ring binder for easy of reading.  
Binder itself is not in very good condition but is a standard smaller size.

This 400 plus page guide covers factory time repair estimates for most common jobs on Mercedes Models produced during the 1960s. Covers chassis 111 sedans, coupes and convertibles, 112, 113, 108, 109 and early 114 and 115 models. Pages are laid out in chart format listing jobs and time estimates in column format.

 

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1971 time manual

This is one of the best built fluid extractors I have seen. As is it works great for drawing power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc. out of their reservoirs. If you attach a hard plastic line on the end (you will need to fabricate a fitting reducer) you can even draw transmission and engine oil. It works great for extracting trans fluid when it has been overfilled. Can be used to add new fluids. You can add transmission fluid carefully to get just the right amount without spilling all over the place. :-)

There are nice measurng marks on the outside of the plastic tub. The pump rod is made from brass and both end caps are threaded aluminum (so you can remove them for cleaning and inspection.

If you need everything for your front hub then this is the best deal. This kit is for ONE SIDE ONLY. Comes with inner and outer wheel bearings, seal, cap, ground clip and pre-load adjusting bolt. Fits right or left side all 116 and 123 up to 1985, and 126 chassis up to 1985 ONLY. These are VERY common wear items on all older chassis that I see come into the shop. Replace at 200,000 miles. We also sell the bearings individually if you do not need the entire kit. Unless you have the proper tools plan to take your hub to a machine shop to have the race pressed in. List price is $73.00.