Here is what Kent says about these wrenches: " I am very picky about the "feel" and "fit" of my combination wrenches. Some are just too smooth and slippery, while others just don't feel good in your hands. Then their are those who have real thick heads that make it hard to get on close quarter nuts and bolts (like Kobalt). A lot of the real cheap wrenches don't fit tight on the heads, thus causing rounding off of the heads (like a lot of them)!!

This is a special pre-chamber collar nut removal socket ONLY that works on the diesel engines in the 1990 to 1991 350SD 350SDL (126 chassis), 1990 to 1993 300D 2.5 (124 chassis), and 1992 to 1995 300SD / S350 (140 chassis).  This tool will only loosen and tighten the special nut holding the prechamber in the head. More is needed if you plan to remove a prechamber in the head.

WARNING: Removal of the prechamber is an intermediate to advanced D.I.Y job.  No instructions or additional support is provided.  Do not purchase this tool unless you are familiar with this procedure and the special precautions associated with it. 

Here is a summary of the steps required to perform this job:

Buy this product with includes our long half inch drive Breaker Bar and special Starter Removal Hex Tool and receive a set of three long extensions for free ( 24 inch long 3/8 drive extension, 18 and 12 inch long 1/4 inch extensions).  

 

Please note these free extensions will not work on this particular breaker bar without a reducer as it ihas a 1/2 inch drive head.

Click below to read full descriptions of products:

• BREAKER BAR
• STARTER REMOVAL HEX TOOL

For 14mm and 18mm spark plugs. These work on the older and the newer ( Up to 1995) Mercedes spark plug holes. Use a 13/16 inch deep socket to drive the chaser.

This is a very handy smaller torque wrench to have in your tool box. It will do fuel injectors but is not quite big enough to torque wheel lug bolts. Range is 5 to 80 foot pounds. To order a 1/2 drive torque wrench CLICK HERE.

Nice set of heavy duty pick tools with rubberized handles. They have hardened steel tips which allow for more prying and twisting with less tendency to bend the tips.

Quality Tool. Use as a long extension on your 3/8 inch ratchet. The magnetic tip will help to hold the bolt into the socket. Or you can remove the socket pull out the telescoping tip and use it as a pickup magnet to get into hard to reach places. LIMITED SUPPLY.

If you already have or are willing to buy a 5 pound slide hammer, you can make your own diesel prechamber removal tool. Slide hammer action will allow you to PULL it from the cylinder head once you have removed the collar nut and the glow plug ( a collar nut removal tool is required. CLICK HERE to learn more). Complete instructions are included on how to remove and replace the pre chamber once you have welded this tool to your slide hammer (no instructions are sent on how to weld it to the hammer as most slide hammers are different).

For 1990 to 1991 350SD 350SDL (126 chassis), 1990 to 1993 300D 2.5 (124 chassis), and 1992 to 1995 300SD / S350 (140 chassis). This is a pre-chamber removal tool ONLY. It does not include the multi-spline socket tool you will need to remove the collar nut. EXTRA slide hammer puller fittings are included as shown. These can be used for other types of jobs. NO INSTRUCTIONS included other than that which is described below:

Kent finally found a hand held torch that REALLY works. And you need a torch like this when working on old cars... one that auto starts easily (like on the first click!), one that does not flame out when you hold it close to the surface, one is easy to adjust the flame and temp, and one that really puts out the heat when needed.

Comes with rapid Piezo start and fine flame adjustment control.

This handy tool will pull off your harmonic balancer in no time at all without damage. This is a necessary procedure when replacing the front crank seal. Many pullers don't have the right size metric bolts that are needed when working on Mercedes diesels. This kit includes the correct size bolts and well as extra different sizes you can use on other engines.

I have used a lot of different clamping tools over the years to prevent fluids from leaking out when removing coolant, fuel, or brake fluid hoses. Most work ok. Some are hard to use in tight places.  Many do not stop every last drip from coming out of the hose. Imagine my excitement a couple years ago when I saw a clamping tool combined with a vise grip like mechanism.  I immediate thought - not that is a tool and a half!  Sure enough after using it it has proven to be the best I have ever used.  And yes, it will stop every drip.... to is super easy to get into tight places and easily clamp and unclamp. The clamp bars swivel are are big enough to work on radiator hoses and strong enough to work on smaller heater and fuel hoses.

This high quality heavy duty 1/2 inch drive Urrea 10 mm Hex Socket is the tool you will need to remove the center bolt holding your steering wheel to the steering column. See Kents video on steering wheel removal on the tech help page. Without the proper socket and procedure you can damage the bolt and you may end up having to drill it out!!!

This set of 5 pick tools have very thin and sharp points. The variety of angles available allows you to get into almost anywhere to remove and o-ring, sealing ring or other small part. Comes in protective plastic case.

When replacing front shocks on the above mentioned Mercedes you must a 10 mm 12 point shock with 3/8 inch drive. If you don't have one you will in trouble. This is a high quality thin wall socket made in Taiwan. See my video on Front Shock Replacement under the TECH HELP page.

To view our complete selection of front shock absorbers CLICK HERE.

Leaking fuel injector pumps have become a very common problem in the 60x. engines produced from the mid 1980s to the mid 1990s. The early 60x. group includes the four cylinder (601) engine that came in the 1984-1986 190D 2.2, the five cylinder (602) engine that came in the 190D 2.5 and 300D 2.5 from 1986 to 1993, and the 6 cylinder (603) engine installed in the 124, 126, and 140 chassis 300D / TD (1987 only), 300SDL and 350SDL from 1986 to 1993. (Later models also use the same o-rings, but my instructions may not apply.)

Maintenance Alert: We have had lots of reports of these bolts loosening up! They WILL shear off if not caught early enough. When that happens the pulley will fall off. At high speed this can lead to engine overhead and even a damaged radiator. Check the tightness of these bolts if you have not done so already. You will need a heavy duty high quality socket as shown here. This one is for a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench. Always use thread locking compound (red preferred) when installing these bolts.

NOTE: These bolts must also be removed when replacing the front crank seal. TYPE front crank seal in search box above to see our seal replacement kits.

NO INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED: The tool is meant for someone who has the factory manual or who already knows how to adjust their injection pump timing on the older diesel engines. Injection pump timing is critical for peak performance. Proper timing reduces engine smoke, improves power, reduces engine injector noise and roughness, and can increase fuel economy.

This custom reamer designed and built by Kent Bergsma in our shop is the only one like it in the World. This is truly another first. Now you will be able to ream out that old crusty carbon build up in your old diesel engine.

Under normal conditions it is not necessary to ream the glow plug holes on these older engines as often as you need to on the newer engines with pencil glow plugs. This is primarily due to the large size of the hole in the series style pre-glow chambers. But as these engines age, burn more oil, and don't drive regularly at high speed Kent has found evidence of significant carbon buildup on the 615 616 and early non turbo 300D engines. Removing the carbon improves starting and reduces engine smoking at startup.

Normal Crimping tools usually only go down to #10 wire. It is hard to find one that will REALLY crimp #8 automotive electrical wire. This one has brute force and call also function as a lineman's plier and wire cutter.

This is a handy winch pulling tool. Not designed for lifting. It is a must have if you plan to replace the guide rods or guide rod mounts (brake control rod bushing) on any 126 chassis from 1981 to 1991. These rubber mounts are notorious for failure. I consider them the most common wear point on the 126 front suspension that can result in clunking sounds and fore and aft movement in the front end when applying brakes.

PLEASE NOTE: No instructions for using this tool on suspension work are included. Instructions come with our complete repair kit shown below:

If you need a replacement 3000 PSI gauge for the Mercedessource injector pressure tester - or you are trying to build your own tester, then we recommend this special flutter resistant gauge. This gauge is high quality and accurate. On the bottom of the gauge is a male 1/4 NPT thread. This is the most common thread and you can find all kinds of fittings at any hardware store that will screw on to it. NO INSTRUCTIONS or other hardware included.

If you need a replacement connector line and fittings for the Mercedessource injector pressure tester - or you are trying to build your own tester, then you will need this special metal fuel line. On one end is the normal fitting to connect to all Mercedes, VW, Peugot, etc. Bosch diesel mechanical fuel injectors. On the other end of the metal line is a fitting that ends with a male 1/4 NPT thread. This is the most common thread and you can find all kinds of fittings at any hardware store that will screw on to it. NO INSTRUCTIONS or other hardware included. We also carry the Flutter resistant 3000 psi gauge CLICK HERE.

emoving the front rubber engine mounts requires getting under the car and going up inside a hole in the subframe to remove the main bolt. And it can be a bear! I don't know who they hired to tighten these at the factory but he must have been a brute. These hex bolts are usually in very tight and you will need a heavy, strong and tight fitting 8 mm hex socket. Only 1/2 inch drive will do. You don't want to break off the tip nor do you want to deal with a rounded out hex under way up inside that channel... Talk about a big wrench dance...