Mercedes multiple electrical woes

Submitted by mixelpix on 6 February 2007 - 11:23am.

Hi, I recently paid someone to modify my 1978 300D with an electric heated Davco fuel filter/water separator to use SVO. He also installed an additional electric fuel pump. I live in Oakland, but the work was done while I was in LA. This is not my daily driver, but I would like it to be. Unfortunately, I haven't done much nighttime driving and only recently noticed some odd behaviour with the indicator lights. Most everything else seems to work, but I am not an electrician and was hoping someone could help me out here.

Of note, everything seemed functional after I purchased the car, before getting the modifications done. I don't want to blame the mechanic I used, but it feels fishy :-( 1) Instrument Cluster: one of the bulbs is simply missing - the Brights Indicator. More annoyingly, the Charge Indicator, Brake Pad Warning and Parking Brake lights all stay on dimly after ignition. As the rpm's increase, the lights fade out. I am pretty sure it is a bad ground as the alternator is outputting sufficient charge, I've replaced the voltage regulator (to no effect), the battery is under 2 years and the belts are all tight (recently replaced prior to my purchase). The Turn Signals, Glowplug Indicator, Fasten Seat Belt lights, Clock, Temp and Tank guages work properly. Not sure about the Fuel Reserve Warning light, haven't let the tank get that low yet. 2) Panel lights for the dash and climate control no longer are on. 3) Headlight Warning Buzzer - doesn't come on anymore when the lights are left on and the door is opened. Those are the items which used to work.

These ones were as is when I bought the thing. 4) Rear Window Defog - only two of the metal wires seem to conduct and melt away the frost. 5) A/C wasn't working when I bought it. It'd be great to find someone who is failiar with the particularities of the Climate Control system as well. I am sure the A/C is expensive to fix, but the climate control heating seems to work intermittently. 6) Most annoyingly the fuse box seems to have been bypassed or otherwise modified from the stock set up? I am no electrician and may simply misunderstand the circuitry. I do have a simple multimeter and was just testing each fuse circuit and if I am reading things correctly, there wasn't power going to each fuse? Do the components on the circuit have to be turned on for power to get to the fuse panel? Any help or advice on how to troubleshoot the instrument cluster would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, -Patrick Kennedy

Start with the simple things first

7 February 2007 - 8:44am
Kent Bergsma

Hi Patrck, that is quite an electrical "load" you bear. Keep in mind it may or may not be related to the work the mechanic did. You do have a 30 year old car and electrical stuff does happen!

Let's start by seeing if we can figure out what is going on with the instrument cluster lights. These clusters can develop bad ground circuits over time and the panel will do all sorts of weird things. If I suspect this problem I run a separate ground wire from the back of the cluster to a new ground connection on the body sheet metal. Try this first to see if there are any changes with the flickering light issue.

All your instrument cluster panel and climate control lights are controlled by the dash dimmer switch on the back of the cluster. You can pull the instrument cluster out and remove the dash dimmer switch. Then put a small jumper wire between the two switch contact pins on the back of the circuit board. That will by-pass the dimmer rheostat and should get all your dash lights working. If not you have a wiring problem.

If you are not clear on how to do the above procedures, more detailed instructions are included in my manual Instrument Cluster Component Removal and Repair. CLICK HERE to read more or order.

Let me know when and if you have success with this first go-around and I can direct you to some solutions for the other problems.

Kent Bergsma

good words of advice!

26 June 2007 - 8:49pm
mixelpix
(LoL! It took me two readings to get your pun...) Been a while since I logged in to this thread! First off - just wanted to say thanks again for all your great kits and help. This really is a tremendous resource. So... I let this electrical issue slide for a while - which I know isn't the best practice - but it seemed as if everything was otherwise functioning properly (there is a distinct difference, for example, between the glow from the pBrake light and the full brightness indicating use.) In the interim since posting this thread I've been giving the ol' sedan a lot of TLC and getting back on a regularly scheduled maintenance program - fluids, filters, valve clearances, replaced the reverse band adjusting bolt after it slipped out, drivers side window motor - fun stuff! Not to mention putting some good long hours of driving. Now that she's topped up and got a wash & a wax, I am curious again about these glowing lights. I still don't feel 110% confident troubleshooting with an electronic schematic, but I think I get the basic picture now. Also, I have since eliminated the wiring of the additional components as a suspect. Even was able to wire them to an empty fuse relay in the fuse box. There is a spare as I have a manual sun roof :) Just to recap, the battery is holding charge and only 2 years old, alternator output is ~13.9V @ idle, belts are tight, I've replaced voltage regulator (probably unecesary - there was still a lot of brush left) and replaced all the fuses. Oh, and I cleaned and dielecric greased all the ground points - engine to body, behind the instrument cluster, batt to body. Still sounds like a ground problem, eh? It's getting late tonight to start a new job. Tomorrow I will try making a direct ground connection from the instrument panels and see if that changes things. Sounds like a good place to start. Oh, one more thing - the tank reserve light doesn't work. Found that out the hard way! Am waiting til the tank drains a little more and then I am gonna take a look at the send unit. Thanks also for the suggestion about bypassing the rheostat! -Patrick Kennedy