We offer these for only $2.00 with any order of other items totaling more than $25.00 (excluding shipping). Please do not add to cart unless you order meets these requirements. LIMIT ONE PER CUSTOMER AT THIS PRICE. These are the zip ties we have all been looking for. They have a super sticky tape of the foot of the tie so you can stick them anywhere in your engine compartment without having to drill a hole in the inner fender panel. (NOTE: Be sure to thoroughly clean the surface BEFORE installing). The other neat thing is that these zip ties can be loosened back up (just like the factory type) to remove the wire bundle or anything else you need to secure. Sold in packs of 6. You will love these!
This is the tool I love to use when troubleshooting engine operating temperature problems. You can stand back and aim the beam right on a spot on the radiator or engine to get an exact temperature reading. This can indicate whether or not your radiator is plugged and confirm if your temperature gauge is accurate or not.
If you are running SVO it can give you accurate readings of the temperature of your oil - both during filtering and coming out of your boost heater.
Features:
NEW LOCTITE PRODUCT - AUGUST PROMO! If you have read very many of my manuals and instructions you already know how much I detest Silicone Gasket Sealant. I know there are places for silicone (ie bath tub caulking, etc), but it should not be used on internal combustion engines!
These rubber end plugs can be used to cap off your vacuum on the end of a line or on certain components. FOR USE ON VACUUM SYSTEM ONLY. These are NOT to be used on fuel injectors.
When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings were swollen and would just not stay connected? This is a L shaped fitting that fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.
When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings or hose were swollen and would just not stay connected? Here is some extra vacuum hose to fix your problem. Fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.
ONE meter cut piece.
This size freeze plug fits almost all gas and diesel engines from the early 70s up into the 90s. This includes all 61x and 60x diesel engines, the 103 gas engine in the 190E, 300SE and 300E. It also fits many V8 engines but you should measure your current plug to be sure. This part measures 34 mm in diameter.
We are seeing more freeze plugs rust out from the inside as these engines age. First sign will be a little rust ring around the outside edge of the plug, next sign will be slight coolant loss, and last sign may be catasropic engine over heat. Check your freeze plugs for any sign of deterioration NOW.
If you plan to change coolant hoses this is a must have labor saving tool. This is one cleverly designed tool. Could not have done it better myself. I actually use to make a couple different types before I found this one. If you have ever tried to remove a radiator hose corroded to an aluminum housing you know what I am talking about and you will love this tool. Great when changing radiator hoses, especially the short hose. 8 inches in length.
It will get those stuck radiator hoses loose and off in seconds...
This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.
Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.
This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.
Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.
If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.
If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.
It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.
In all my years of working around engines the one thing that absolutely drives me crazy is barbed hose fittings. This even got worse in recents years as many SVO WVO kit makers would send our their components with barbed hose fittings! Just try to remove a rubber fuel hose from a barbed fitting after is has been clamped down, or not even clamped down. Try to remove it after a few months when the hose has been heated and it is even worse!. You end up having to cut the hose off and if you are not careful you can nick the barb and the new hose will leak.
PLEASE NOTE: This can only be shipped UPS ground. It can not be shipped via postal or to foreign addresses. If you have any Mercedes model with hydraulic self leveling suspension from the early 70's up to the early 1990's this is the correct fluid to use. High quality Meyle or Febi Bilstein product from Germany. Any other type of fluid can damage the seals and score your pump. Believe it or not, I have seen transmission fluid, jack fluid, and even engine oil in these systems. If your fluid is old and dark it is time to flush it out. Order 3 liters if you are going to do a complete fluid change (you will have a little left over). At the same time you should change the filter located in the top of the fluid tank. CLICK HERE to order filter.
If you are going to change a water pump on a 103 engine you will need this tool or you may never get the pump off. The hours wasted can lead to extreme mental meltdown (I speak from experience :-) ). Access and clearance is so tight that a normal 3/8 inch drive extension and universal will not work. This is a quality set of tools put together for you to work right from the start. The socket is Craftsman and the extensions and universal with adapter are Stanley. Partial instructions included.
This tool comes only with instructions to get on and to remove the water pump bolts. It DOES NOT come with complete instructions on removing and replacing the pump. Those instructions are in the works and will be available soon.
Fits the Following: Late 126 201 124 chassis, Gasoline Models only! 1984-1985 380SE, 1987-1993 190E 2.6, 1990 -1993 300E 4matic, 1990-1992 300CE, 1988-1991 300SEL, 1992-1993 400E, 1986-1991 420SEL, 1986-1991 560SEL / SEC. This is a brand new Genuine Mercedes Fuel tank filter screen. Includes new oring.
We also offer a specialty fuel tank screen removal socket! CLICK HERE to view this tool.
Finally a socket to remove your fuel tank screen that really works. Most correct size sockets tend to be SO BIG that they require 3/4 inch drive ratchets and extensions to use them. Who has those in their tool box?? Even if you did, when trying to get up above the rear axle with a big clunky 3/4 ratchet to remove the screen can be an exercise in total frustration and failure.
Almost all Mercedes gas and diesel engines from the late 50's up to the early 90's used pressed in steel pins to hold the timing chain guide rails in position (inside the engine block). To easily remove these you can use a slide hammer IF the engine is out of the car!!! In the real world of old cars, timing chain guide rails often have to be replaced with the engine in the car! There is no room between the front of the engine and the radiator to get any type of slide hammer or long puller tool to work.
This kit contains everything you need to reseal your hydraulic suspension pump. It includes the factory input shaft seal and hard to find orings to seal the cover and inside the pump. Comes with instructions. If your shaft seal is bad you could be leaking hydraulic fluid into your engine... not good! All these pumps are now 20 plus years or older. They all need resealing if they have never been opened.
Note: This is only a reseal kit. If the inside of your pump is badly worn or scored this kit will not fix your problems. New pumps are very very expensive. We have only a couple good used pumps available. CLICK HERE to view.
If your 103 engine makes ticking noises when you first start it up and that noise comes and goes it may be due to one or more failed hydraulic valve lifters. Applicable Benz are the 6 cylinder 190E or 124 chassis 300E (CE and TE) or the 126 chassis 300SE / L with the single cam gas engine up through 1992. These are sold individually. If you need all 12 required then email or call us for a special discount.
To order a valve cover gasket CLICK HERE.