126, Suspension & Driveline

This is a common wear item on high mileage 126 chassis. It will start out as a clunking noise when you go over rough ground. When real bad it will be hard to get your car to track right down the road  (it will want to wander). Note this part has a small ball joint that wears out with age and use. Fits all 126 sedans and coupes right front from 1981 to 1991

This is a common wear item on high mileage 126 chassis. It will start out as a clunking noise when you go over rough ground. When real bad it will be hard to get your car to track right down the road  (it will want to wander). Note this part has a small ball joint that wears out with age and use. Fits all 126 sedans and coupes left front from 1981 to 1991

Front suspension overhaul is almost always left until one has fixed everything else on the car. We know that most owners can live with some looseness in the suspension, especially when you consider the age of the 126 chassis. But if you want to restore that great Mercedes factory feel and ride (that we all love!) there is no short cut but to replace all the rubber and wear parts in the lower section of your front suspension. NOTE: This kit does not include the upper control arms as we have found many have already replaced those as they often fail first. If yours have not been replaced and you want the full deal, then we recommend you also order those separately. CLICK HERE.

NEW LOCTITE PRODUCT - AUGUST PROMO! If you have read very many of my manuals and instructions you already know how much I detest Silicone Gasket Sealant. I know there are places for silicone (ie bath tub caulking, etc), but it should not be used on internal combustion engines!

This seal and gasket kit will solve your problems with any external or internal (into the engine) leaks at the hydraulic pump (location at the front of the cylinder head). If your hydraulic fluid is disappearing from the tank and you can't see any leaks in your rear suspension - then it is possible the shaft seal of your pump is bad and fluid is leaking into your engine oil (and yes, this is not good!). This same pump is used on all Mercedes self-leveling suspension systems from the late 1970's up through 1991. Your pump will need to be removed from your engine in order to install new seals and gaskets. You should have correct fluid (Mercedes type) and a new fluid filter on hand before you begin. CLICK HERE to order those items.

Common wear point on high mileage 126 front suspension. This is the bushing that connects the inside end of lower control arm to the subframe on all 126 sedans and SEC couples from 1981 to 1991. This is for one side only. You will need to order 2 if you are replacing both sides.

PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT A PRODUCT, JUST INFORMATION WE WILL BE PROVIDING ON THE WEBSITE. STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION! This question could well be the number one request we receive from new customers. The question seems to be popping up frequently now as many people are buying these old diesels for the first time hoping to convert them to run on alternative fuel. It is a great idea and can be a rewarding endevour IF you find the right car to begin with and are willing and able to repair it yourself.

I like this - permanent - threadlocker because it is super strong but can still be removed with a heavy handed breaker bar. This is a very large bottle for the price and is a must have for Mercedes diesel owners. I use it anytime I am doing major repair work on an engine or transmission. Great for front crank bolt, cam bolt, torque converter bolts, injection pump mounting nuts, front engine accessories, brake caliper bolts, front suspension, etc. Anything that you can just not afford to come loose.

This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.

Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.

This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.

Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.

If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.

If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.

Here is an inexpensive set of cleaning brushes that really get down in the crevices. The plastic one is good for exterior cleaning around the window and body trim. The brass is good for cleaning engine parts you don't want to scratech. The steel one is excellent if you are doing some rust repair.

If you are going to work on your diesel fuel injectors you are going to need a torque wrench. If you are going to tighten your alloy wheel lug bolts properly you should use a torque wrench. In fact if you do your own work you should have a 1/2 inch clicker torque wrench in your tool box. I know why you don't have one. They tend to be expensive for the limited amount you might use one. Well, now you can get a quality one for a very good price. This is a special offer and we only have a limited number in stock.

It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.

 

PLEASE NOTE: This can only be shipped UPS ground. It can not be shipped via postal or to foreign addresses. If you have any Mercedes model with hydraulic self leveling suspension from the early 70's up to the early 1990's this is the correct fluid to use. High quality Meyle or Febi Bilstein product from Germany. Any other type of fluid can damage the seals and score your pump. Believe it or not, I have seen transmission fluid, jack fluid, and even engine oil in these systems. If your fluid is old and dark it is time to flush it out. Order 3 liters if you are going to do a complete fluid change (you will have a little left over). At the same time you should change the filter located in the top of the fluid tank. CLICK HERE to order filter.

GARAGE SALE ITEM! Brand New Lemforder Lower front ball joint. Fits Right or left side. You are buying one only!

Refurbished hydraulic rear suspension pump. These are enormously expensive to replace if purchased new. This unit has been taken apart, cleaned and inspected and new outer oring and new shaft seal have been installed. Inside of the pump is in good condtion with no scoring or adverse wear. Pump mechanicals are in good used condition. Comes with gasket and ready to install.

This kit contains everything you need to reseal your hydraulic suspension pump. It includes the factory input shaft seal and hard to find orings to seal the cover and inside the pump. Comes with instructions. If your shaft seal is bad you could be leaking hydraulic fluid into your engine... not good! All these pumps are now 20 plus years or older. They all need resealing if they have never been opened.

Note: This is only a reseal kit. If the inside of your pump is badly worn or scored this kit will not fix your problems. New pumps are very very expensive. We have only a couple good used pumps available. CLICK HERE to view.

This is one of the best built fluid extractors I have seen. As is it works great for drawing power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc. out of their reservoirs. If you attach a hard plastic line on the end (you will need to fabricate a fitting reducer) you can even draw transmission and engine oil. It works great for extracting trans fluid when it has been overfilled. Can be used to add new fluids. You can add transmission fluid carefully to get just the right amount without spilling all over the place. :-)

There are nice measurng marks on the outside of the plastic tub. The pump rod is made from brass and both end caps are threaded aluminum (so you can remove them for cleaning and inspection.

If you need everything for your front hub then this is the best deal. This kit is for ONE SIDE ONLY. Comes with inner and outer wheel bearings, seal, cap, ground clip and pre-load adjusting bolt. Fits right or left side all 116 and 123 up to 1985, and 126 chassis up to 1985 ONLY. These are VERY common wear items on all older chassis that I see come into the shop. Replace at 200,000 miles. We also sell the bearings individually if you do not need the entire kit. Unless you have the proper tools plan to take your hub to a machine shop to have the race pressed in. List price is $73.00.

New front INNER wheel bearing with race for one side only. Fits right or left side all 116, 123 and 126 chassis. This is a VERY common wear item on almost all 123 chassis I see come into the shop. Replace at 200,000 miles. We also sell the inner individually or check our complete kit if you need everything. Unless you have the proper tools plan to take your hub to a machine shop to have the race pressed in. List price is $34.50

Set of 2 Quality German ATE brake rotors. The great thing about Mercedes is that these rotors fit almost all their models from the late 1960s until the late 1980's. This includes 108, 111, 113, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123 and 126 chassis built during those years. These can be easily change by removing the rear calipers. Do not bother machining old rotors. Mercedes always recommends you just replace with new when your old rotors are badly scored - and at our price new is only slightly more than having your old ones turned at a machine shop.

FITS THE FOLLOWING rear brake assemblies both ATE and Bendix: all 107, 108, 109, 111, 113, 114, 115, 116, 123 and 126 chassis from 1969 to 1991. Tired of squeeking or squealing brakes but find you pads are almost new. Many times adding this shim between the caliper piston and the back of the brake pad with stop annoying slow speed brake sqeal. When you add high temp brake pad paste to both sides of the metal shim you can almost guarantee long sweek free service. SOLD IN A SET OF TWO.

If you plan to do much work on your Mercedes these metric wrenches and sockets are very desireable - if not a necessity. If you have wanted to add to your tool box but not spend a lot of money here is your chance. These are not Snap On quality wrenches but if you only work on cars ocassionally these are more than adequate to get the job done. Set includes metric crows feet, metric 3/8 inch drive hex (Allen) sockets, and metric 1/4 inch drive socket set 5 to 14 mm. These items are also available separately. To see a list of all our tools CLICK HERE.

Long drive pin punches are very handy when working on your Benz. The smaller size in this set is particularly helpful when removing and replacing twin pin style brake pads. All steel. Made in India.

We are now offering a kit for all 116 and 126 chassis with 2 new tie rods and a tool to remove the old ones. Note: Plan to have a front end alighment check done after replacement. This can be done at any good tire or front end alighment shop. This is a very common wear item on these older models. Often if one is worn the other is not far behind, so we always recommend replacing them as a set.

 

Instructions included: Kit comes with a tip sheet of illustrated instructions on how to get the old ones off and the new ones adjusted and on your car.

If you feel you also need the center rod please call or email us.

New front outer wheel bearing with race for one side only. Fits right or left side all 116, 123 and 126 chassis. This is a VERY common wear item on almost all 123 chassis I see come into the shop. Replace at 200,000 miles. Outers will wear out a lot faster than the inners. We also sell the inner individually or check our complete kit if you need everything. Unless you have the proper tools plan to take your hub to a machine shop to have the race pressed in. List price is $23.68

Not only does this set include almost 100 pieces but it includes metric sized allen (hex) bits and even an attachment to remove a wing nut! How cool is that? Most kits don't contain metric sizes. There are probably enough screwdriver bits in this kit to last you for a very long. Comes in nice molded red case.

Can be used to log maintenance on all Mercedes, Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. We are excited here at Mercedessource about our new book release. This is one booklet we believe every Mercedes owner of every model will really appreciate. In fact we know a number of you will want multiple copies. We plan to use the first 30 to 40 around here personally for our own fleet.

How many times have we (and I am talking about myself here) done an oil change on our vehicle, looked at the odometer and said to ourselves, I will write the mileage down later. I know that I have even tried to memorize the mileage, only to discover a couple months down the road that I am asking myself, Was that 82 or 83 thousand miles?

Mercedes use a lot of Metric Allen Head bolts especially on their engines. If you are going to work on them yourself one of the first things you will need is a good assortment. Start with a 3/8 inch drive socket set as shown. These are inexpensive but well made sockets from China - most common sizes 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 10 mm. They can be cut and modified for special applications.

SKU: TUL-COMMASS

Fits the Following: All 123 and 126 Chassis from 1977 to 1991.

These are the Rear stabalizer links, also known as Rear Sway Bar links. The connect from the Rear Torsion Bar to the Rear Axle. If your older Mercedes is clunking in the rear end this is probably the culprit! This is showing up as a very common wear problem on these models lately. Always replace in pairs, as they are probably both original equipment! These Chassis use the plastic style.

SKU: RGR-COMRSL