114, Gas Engine

These are the zip ties we have all been looking for. They have a super sticky tape of the foot of the tie so you can stick them anywhere in your engine compartment without having to drill a hole in the inner fender panel. (NOTE: Be sure to thoroughly clean the surface BEFORE installing). The other neat thing is that these zip ties can be loosened back up (just like the factory type) to remove the wire bundle or anything else you need to secure. Sold in packs of 6. You will love these!

This is the tool I love to use when troubleshooting engine operating temperature problems. You can stand back and aim the beam right on a spot on the radiator or engine to get an exact temperature reading. This can indicate whether or not your radiator is plugged and confirm if your temperature gauge is accurate or not.

If you are running SVO it can give you accurate readings of the temperature of your oil - both during filtering and coming out of your boost heater.

Features:

NEW LOCTITE PRODUCT - AUGUST PROMO! If you have read very many of my manuals and instructions you already know how much I detest Silicone Gasket Sealant. I know there are places for silicone (ie bath tub caulking, etc), but it should not be used on internal combustion engines!

These rubber end plugs can be used to cap off your vacuum on the end of a line or on certain components. FOR USE ON VACUUM SYSTEM ONLY. These are NOT to be used on fuel injectors.

CLICK HERE to view the Vacuum Connector Service Kit.

When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings were swollen and would just not stay connected? This is a L shaped fitting that fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.

CLICK HERE to view the Vacuum Connector Service Kit.

When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings or hose were swollen and would just not stay connected? Here is some extra vacuum hose to fix your problem. Fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.

ONE meter cut piece.

CLICK HERE to view the Vacuum Connector Service Kit.

When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings were swollen and would just not stay connected? This is a Y shaped fitting that fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.

CLICK HERE to view the Vacuum Connector Service Kit.

When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings were swollen and would just not stay connected? This is a + shaped fitting that fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.

CLICK HERE to view the Vacuum Connector Service Kit.

When was the last time you knocked one of your vacuum lines off around the oil filter housing, only to discover when you tried to reattached it that the fittings were swollen and would just not stay connected? This is a U shaped fitting that fits 115, 116, 123, and 126 chassis.

CLICK HERE to view the Vacuum Connector Service Kit.

This size freeze plug fits almost all gas and diesel engines from the early 70s up into the 90s. This includes all 61x and 60x diesel engines, the 103 gas engine in the 190E, 300SE and 300E. It also fits many V8 engines but you should measure your current plug to be sure. This part measures 34 mm in diameter.

We are seeing more freeze plugs rust out from the inside as these engines age. First sign will be a little rust ring around the outside edge of the plug, next sign will be slight coolant loss, and last sign may be catasropic engine over heat. Check your freeze plugs for any sign of deterioration NOW.

If you plan to change coolant hoses this is a must have labor saving tool. This is one cleverly designed tool. Could not have done it better myself. I actually use to make a couple different types before I found this one. If you have ever tried to remove a radiator hose corroded to an aluminum housing you know what I am talking about and you will love this tool. Great when changing radiator hoses, especially the short hose. 8 inches in length.

It will get those stuck radiator hoses loose and off in seconds...

I like this - permanent - threadlocker because it is super strong but can still be removed with a heavy handed breaker bar. This is a very large bottle for the price and is a must have for Mercedes diesel owners. I use it anytime I am doing major repair work on an engine or transmission. Great for front crank bolt, cam bolt, torque converter bolts, injection pump mounting nuts, front engine accessories, brake caliper bolts, front suspension, etc. Anything that you can just not afford to come loose.

This removable thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the removable type (meaning that it can be easily removed with hand tools). Comes in small .20 Fl oz. bottle great for most small jobs.

Excellent for all work around diesel engines to prevent vibration failure and breakdowns. If you need the red more permanent type CLICK HERE.

This permanent thread locker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and dries hard in 20 to 60 minutes. Use it to securely lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening. Extremely important in critical engine and suspension parts. This is the permanent type (meaning that it is possible to remove only when applying heat to 450 degress F - with propane torch) or a very heavy breaker bar. I like to use this one on brake caliper bolts as it is such a critical bolt.

Excellent when retaining bearings and bearing races, freeze plugs, rocker arm and main bearing studs, etc. Can fill gaps up to .007 and assures positive controlled locking.

If you work around your Mercedes much this is a great tool to have. The quality is exceptional for the price. It will reset to measure in both inches and millimeters. For a limited time I will even include a spare button battery at no extra cost.

If you are going to test and tune your diesel fuel injectors this is a must have tool! It is the best way to determine the current thickness of the pressure adjusting shim washer in each injector and to help choose the proper replacement. We are committed to helping you service and overhaul this critical maintenance component.

Here is an inexpensive set of cleaning brushes that really get down in the crevices. The plastic one is good for exterior cleaning around the window and body trim. The brass is good for cleaning engine parts you don't want to scratech. The steel one is excellent if you are doing some rust repair.

If you are going to work on your diesel fuel injectors you are going to need a torque wrench. If you are going to tighten your alloy wheel lug bolts properly you should use a torque wrench. In fact if you do your own work you should have a 1/2 inch clicker torque wrench in your tool box. I know why you don't have one. They tend to be expensive for the limited amount you might use one. Well, now you can get a quality one for a very good price. This is a special offer and we only have a limited number in stock.

It comes with a nice moulded plastic case and instructions. This wrench is 18 inches long for good hand torque and it is made in Taiwan. Much better quality than those made in China.

 

Almost all Mercedes gas and diesel engines from the late 50's up to the early 90's used pressed in steel pins to hold the timing chain guide rails in position (inside the engine block). To easily remove these you can use a slide hammer IF the engine is out of the car!!! In the real world of old cars, timing chain guide rails often have to be replaced with the engine in the car! There is no room between the front of the engine and the radiator to get any type of slide hammer or long puller tool to work.

This 400 plus page guide covers factory time repair estimates for most common jobs on Mercedes Models produced during the 1960s. Covers chassis 111 sedans, coupes and convertibles, 112, 113, 108, 109 and early 114 and 115 models. Pages are laid out in chart format listing jobs and time estimates in column format. NOTE: Pages have been removed from original factory binding and placed in medium 3 ring binder for easy of reading.  
Binder itself is not in very good condition but is a standard smaller size.

This 400 plus page guide covers factory time repair estimates for most common jobs on Mercedes Models produced during the 1960s. Covers chassis 111 sedans, coupes and convertibles, 112, 113, 108, 109 and early 114 and 115 models. Pages are laid out in chart format listing jobs and time estimates in column format.

 

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1971 time manual

Works on most Early 116, 107, 114, 115 and early 123 models up to the end of the 1970's. This is a genuine Bosch replacement for alternators in those cars that use an internal voltage regulator. If you alternator has a rectangular housing on the outside of the regulator then this is the correct part. DO NOT let anyone tell you to replace your alternator until you have inspected and/or replaced this inexpensive regulator. Even if your old alternator is working pull the regulator and inspect the brushes. If they are worn down short just replace it. This is the best RUN INSURANCE you can get!

This is one of the best built fluid extractors I have seen. As is it works great for drawing power steering fluid, brake fluid, etc. out of their reservoirs. If you attach a hard plastic line on the end (you will need to fabricate a fitting reducer) you can even draw transmission and engine oil. It works great for extracting trans fluid when it has been overfilled. Can be used to add new fluids. You can add transmission fluid carefully to get just the right amount without spilling all over the place. :-)

There are nice measurng marks on the outside of the plastic tub. The pump rod is made from brass and both end caps are threaded aluminum (so you can remove them for cleaning and inspection.

If you are looking for an inexpensive way to test the electrical circuits on your Mercedes here is a good option. This tester reads both AC and DC voltage, DC current, resistance, and transistor, diode and battery test. Features automatic zero adjust, overange indication, and low battery indicator. Easy to read LCD readout and comes with 32 inch long test leads. Great for testing battery drains and glow plugs.

If you plan to do much work on your Mercedes these metric wrenches and sockets are very desireable - if not a necessity. If you have wanted to add to your tool box but not spend a lot of money here is your chance. These are not Snap On quality wrenches but if you only work on cars ocassionally these are more than adequate to get the job done. Set includes metric crows feet, metric 3/8 inch drive hex (Allen) sockets, and metric 1/4 inch drive socket set 5 to 14 mm. These items are also available separately. To see a list of all our tools CLICK HERE.

Long drive pin punches are very handy when working on your Benz. The smaller size in this set is particularly helpful when removing and replacing twin pin style brake pads. All steel. Made in India.

Not only does this set include almost 100 pieces but it includes metric sized allen (hex) bits and even an attachment to remove a wing nut! How cool is that? Most kits don't contain metric sizes. There are probably enough screwdriver bits in this kit to last you for a very long. Comes in nice molded red case.

Installing steel threaded spark plugs in aluminum heads is risky business. If you are not careful it is easy to damage the fragile aluminum threads. In a few cases I have seen spark plugs blow out of their holes while the engine is running. And does that ever make a loud racket! Heavy handed mechanics often cross thread the plugs during a tune-up and you wont even know it until you go to replace the plugs at some later date.

Great set of metric open end wrenches to get into those real tight places. Metric sizes from 10 to 19 mm. Made in India. They use the standard 3/8 inch drive extension as long as you need to work at right angles in restricted space. Only 10 sets available at this price!

Here is a great set of metric wrenches at a fantastic price that you can afford to cut, grind, heat and bend for all those instances where you need a specical wrench to get into a tight place. These are a black oxide finish so you won't have a problem with the chrome chipping or peeling off after modification. They are made in India and I have found they are a little tougher than the cheap sets coming out of China. Sizes range from 6 mm to 24 mm. The other nice thing about these wrenches is the open end heads are thinner than most other wrenches and will allow you to get onto narrower nuts. And if they are still too thick you can grind them thinner!!

Every tool box should have this set!

FITS all 116 123 and 126 chassis from 1977 to 1985. Finally a socket to remove your fuel tank screen that really works. Most correct size sockets tend to be SO BIG that they require 3/4 inch drive ratchets and extensions to use them. Who has those in their tool box?? Even if you did, when trying to get up above the rear axle with a big clunky 3/4 ratchet to remove the screen can be an exercise in total frustration and failure.