Recently, I set out with the goal to provide our customers with all the resources they would need to troubleshoot and repair the brake systems on their own cars. As your favorite Benz ages brake problems will arise and they can sometimes be difficult to diagnose. Since brakes are a safety related system it is also VERY important that any repair work be done properly and with great care.
Kent is often asked what are the most important SEALANTS AND ADESIVES to have around for your Benz. These are his top 5 picks. This kit includes the following 5 products:
Here is what Kent says about these wrenches: " I am very picky about the "feel" and "fit" of my combination wrenches. Some are just too smooth and slippery, while others just don't feel good in your hands. Then their are those who have real thick heads that make it hard to get on close quarter nuts and bolts (like Kobalt). A lot of the real cheap wrenches don't fit tight on the heads, thus causing rounding off of the heads (like a lot of them)!!
5 pieces 11" to 16" long misc ends from our cutoff stock. From 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch diameter. These can be used on various vacuum connections. Maybe some small fuel hose included. Yes, Kent does use fuel hose on vacuum systems as it will not swell and rot like regular rubber vacuum hose.
PLEASE NOTE: Not to be used for diesel fuel injector fuel return hoses!!
SPECIAL BUY: Limited to stock on hand. Here is your chance to replace both REAR brake rotors for a fantastic price. These rotors have a special phosphate coating on the edge and center section to retard rust. Installation INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED. 8 illustrated pages written by Kent Bergsma
The great thing about Mercedes is that these REAR rotors fit almost all their models from 1969 until 1991. This includes most but not all 108, 111, 113, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123 and 126 chassis built during those years. Will NOT fit 201 or 124 chassis. These rotors can be easily change by removing the rear calipers.
Buy this product with includes our long half inch drive Breaker Bar and special Starter Removal Hex Tool and receive a set of three long extensions for free ( 24 inch long 3/8 drive extension, 18 and 12 inch long 1/4 inch extensions).
Please note these free extensions will not work on this particular breaker bar without a reducer as it ihas a 1/2 inch drive head.
Click below to read full descriptions of products:
For 14mm and 18mm spark plugs. These work on the older and the newer ( Up to 1995) Mercedes spark plug holes. Use a 13/16 inch deep socket to drive the chaser.
This is a very handy smaller torque wrench to have in your tool box. It will do fuel injectors but is not quite big enough to torque wheel lug bolts. Range is 5 to 80 foot pounds. To order a 1/2 drive torque wrench CLICK HERE.
Nice set of heavy duty pick tools with rubberized handles. They have hardened steel tips which allow for more prying and twisting with less tendency to bend the tips.
Replace those nuts that keep loosening up with nylock metric nuts that just won't come off. Inside the door panel on the window regulators. Around the engine compartment. Air filter housing nuts. etc. etc.
Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir Plug
If you have a 1985 or older Mercedes with round or square sealed beam headlights one of the best safety improvements you can make is to install ungraded H4 headlights. You won't believe the difference! You will actually be able to REALLY see where you are going on a dark country road. The beam width increase will also help you see a deer before it jumps out in front of you. The other advantage with these headlights is if it does burn out you only need to replace the internal bulb (H4). This works on all models started in the 1950s with both single round or square (110, 113, 114, 115, 123 and early 126 chassis) and quad headlights (111, 112, 108, 109, 107 and 116 chassis).
We currenly only carry the single round headlights. CLICK HERE.
Brand new Genuine Part. Plastic ball sockets can deteriorate and threads can rust up. It is important you have a good operating rod and tight arm in order to properly adjust your rear end ride height. NO instructions included. See our manual on SLS troubleshooting for more information.
Kent finally found a hand held torch that REALLY works. And you need a torch like this when working on old cars... one that auto starts easily (like on the first click!), one that does not flame out when you hold it close to the surface, one is easy to adjust the flame and temp, and one that really puts out the heat when needed.
Comes with rapid Piezo start and fine flame adjustment control.
I have used a lot of different clamping tools over the years to prevent fluids from leaking out when removing coolant, fuel, or brake fluid hoses. Most work ok. Some are hard to use in tight places. Many do not stop every last drip from coming out of the hose. Imagine my excitement a couple years ago when I saw a clamping tool combined with a vise grip like mechanism. I immediate thought - not that is a tool and a half! Sure enough after using it it has proven to be the best I have ever used. And yes, it will stop every drip.... to is super easy to get into tight places and easily clamp and unclamp. The clamp bars swivel are are big enough to work on radiator hoses and strong enough to work on smaller heater and fuel hoses.
I like tools. I especially like tools that work as advertised and make the job easier. I am constantly on the lookout for new tool releases and/or unique designs. From my own experience, I know that many new tools come from someone's frustration over a tool that just does not work quite right. That is how my diesel valve adjusting wrenches came into being!. Those German Hazett valve wrenches just did not "cut it." I can not believe I have sold over 10,000 pairs of my valve wrenches. So when I see a new tool that fills a need I always smile and wonder just who was behind the concept and what happened to bring it to market!
Grommets push into the holes in the trunk to hold the emblems for the right and left side as applicable. A must have if you plan to repaint your car. These will work on the following models.
Mercedes-Benz 230
Mercedes-Benz 240D
Mercedes-Benz 280CE
Mercedes-Benz 280E
Mercedes-Benz 280S
Mercedes-Benz 280SE
Mercedes-Benz 300CD
Mercedes-Benz 300D
Mercedes-Benz 300SD
Mercedes-Benz 300TD
Mercedes-Benz 380SE
Mercedes-Benz 380SEC
Mercedes-Benz 380SEL
Mercedes-Benz 450SE
Mercedes-Benz 450SEL
Mercedes-Benz 500SEC
Mercedes-Benz 500SEL
Fluid leaks are a very common problem on older cars and it is something you will eventually need to deal with if you plan to own an older Mercedes Benz that you use as a daily driver. They can be coolant leaks, brake fluid leaks, transmission leaks, rear end leaks, fuel system leaks and engine oil leaks. Engine oil leaks are more common on diesel engines because of the high internal crank case pressures. On this page we will review some of the common fluid leaks and direct you to our specialty parts and kits that will help you fix it yourself!
Kent could not live without zip ties. Almost anyone who has work on cars, boats, or airplanes will agree. Here is a 100 pak of the popular 8 inch size.
This set of 5 pick tools have very thin and sharp points. The variety of angles available allows you to get into almost anywhere to remove and o-ring, sealing ring or other small part. Comes in protective plastic case.
Worn tie rod ends can affect the steering of your car as well as safety. In most models there are six of them located on the ends of the linkage rods that connect your wheel hubs to the steering box. They do not wear out overnight! Most extreme wear is caused by lack of lubrication. On all models after the early 1960's the grease is sealed in the tie rod ball joint by a rubber boot. If this boot cracks the grease will leak out and moisture will leak in.
This is one area on an old Benz that really gets neglected. In fact you may even be asking yourself, "What could possibly need servicing inside the doors?" Believe it or not, there are actually quite a few things that need attention, and if they don't get it, your doors may suffer from broken or bent power window regulators, failed door check straps, sticking door locks, doors not shutting properly, or even bottoms of door rusting out.
Rust can start on the inside of the bottom of Mercedes doors even on "nice" cars that have been garaged and not driven on salted roads. The problem comes from the excess rain water that drains out the bottom holes in the doors. This creates a high moisture environment that can cause real problems. All it takes is a small spot of rust to start and grow over the years. If you don't catch it in time you will find rust out holes in the bottoms of your doors some day. Next time you have the door panel off inspect the inside bottom by the drain holes (make certain those holes are not plugged). If you see any rust at all clean the area and coat with MIRACLE PAINT to stop the rust dead in its tracks.